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Presents From Versace

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TIMES FASHION EDITOR

The torrent of media attention focused on Gianni Versace’s murder in Miami left most people who own a television set with an awareness of the designer, his princely lifestyle and the global reach of his empire. For those also interested in Versace’s work, his legacy of style can be found between the high-gloss hardcovers of a striking series of coffee-table books.

The first kaleidoscope of distinctive Versace images, “Signatures,” was published in 1991 in conjunction with a Fashion Institute of Technology retrospective of the designer’s clothing. Mark Macgowan, general manager of Abbeville Press, Versace’s publisher, said, “Gianni was very involved and he loved the whole publishing process. After the first one, he liked to have a new book ready every Christmas, and he’d give them as presents to all his friends.”

“Signatures,” the most autobiographical, was followed by “Do Not Disturb,” “Vanitas: Designs,” “Men Without Ties” and “Rock and Royalty,” all boldly graphic compilations of advertising campaign outtakes, runway shots, Italianate still lifes, and campy nude gods and goddesses by Versace court photographers Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton and Bruce Weber, with text by a variety of writers. “South Beach Stories,” by Gianni and Donatella Versace, was published only in Europe.

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Royalties from the $75 books were donated to charities. So while they weren’t a profit-making proposition for Versace, “he knew that the books would be displayed and reviewed and get his name out there,” Macgowan said. “It was very shrewd on his part, from a commercial point of view.”

“Signatures” is out of print, but the rest of the Versace catalog has been selling briskly since his death. “In the last month, we’ve taken orders for about 20,000 books, the number we would normally have sold in six months,” Macgowan said. They’re available at bookstores and from the Versace boutique in Beverly Hills.

Just before his death, Versace approved designs for “The Art of Being You,” which will be issued next spring. And “Do Not Disturb” will come out as a tiny folio, a 4-by-4 1/2-inch, $12 paperback that is a miniaturized version of the original. It offers visions of a modern Italian paradise, juxtaposed with depictions of classic themes and Versace family photos, creating a romantic alternative to the sleazy “Suicide of a Serial Killer” paperback that is sure to hit the stands soon.

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