1995 Bodegas Ismael Arroyo “Val Sotillo,” Ribera del Duero, Spain (About $16)

This is a knockout example of the exciting new generation of wines coming from the Ribera del Duero region in northern Spain. Until the late ‘70s, this beautiful valley was notable primarily for the legendary Vega Sicilia, Spain’s most expensive wine. But now there are a number of fine estates bringing well-deserved recognition to the region. Among them is Bodegas Ismael Arroyo, founded in 1979. The 1995 Val Sotillo is an opulent wine of great character made from Tinta del Pais, the local name for the Tempranillo grape. It is deep purple-red in color and bursts with fruit: Its heady scent of red berries jumps right out of the glass. It drinks deliciously now and will only improve with time.

The question is whether to drink it with the Christmas goose or the standing rib roast. I suspect it would go beautifully with either.