A Measure of ‘Joy’

It was certainly Swiss steak: browned slices of round steak cooked with an assortment of vegetables until fork-tender. But was it a great Swiss steak?

That was the kind of question we had time and time again during the testing of recipes from the new “Joy of Cooking.” As with many of the book’s recipes made in The Times Test Kitchen over the last month, the answer was “not really,” though it was certainly a good Swiss steak.

There were no failures among the more than one dozen recipes we tried; neither were there many spectacular successes.

A notable exception: The buttermilk-persimmon pudding was everything you’d want it to be, moist and subtly spicy, perfect for serving with some barely sweetened whipped cream. And, as we hoped, the brownies and devil’s food cake were the definitive versions of these American classics.

The Moroccan stewed vegetables were wonderful as well, managing to be richly spiced without losing the flavor of the vegetables. Unfortunately, we got the recipe from an early review copy and it was left out of the final book (we’re printing it anyway; consider it a lost “Joy” recipe found).

More often, the recipes seemed to fall just short. We expected greatness when we made the beans and cabbage with shrimp--the headnote called the dish phenomenal--but got an ordinary weekday dinner instead, nothing special about it.

The sesame noodles were delicious, but the recipe made about twice as much sauce as necessary (a revised version is presented here). And although the Persian rice was authentically flavored, it lacked both the delicate texture of the original and the crunchy tah diq that forms on the bottom of the skillet and is the mark of a really good Persian cook.

For the most part, the recipes worked perfectly well, but that extra kick you expect from a great dish was missing. In short, the recipes were good, but not great. And maybe that’s exactly what you need from a self-described “all-purpose” cookbook.

The Provencale beef daube and the zucchini casserole, for instance, were decent but not distinctive. The Southeast Asian-influenced grilled five-spice ribs and the shrimp and avocado tostadas had their fans among the tasters. And the baked macaroni and cheese was praised by some for its elegant onion undertone but was dissed by others because it wasn’t cheesy enough.

None of these flaws was fatal, and even the most lackluster of the dishes could have been easily doctored by a reasonably good home cook. The Swiss steak, for example, may have needed only a little more tomato paste.

Of course, the “Joy of Cooking” is much more than a collection of recipes. In all honesty, it is probably worth more than the $30 asking price for the background information alone.

The 1997 revision is even more of a reference work than any of the previous editions. The so-called “About” sections are longer and there are more of them, and even though a well-thought-out “Kitchen Equipment” chapter bit the dust in the final flurry of cuts, sections on cooking methods and ingredients are presented in great detail--though in very small type.

Treasured American staple recipes--chicken pot pie, devil’s food cake, sour cream coffee cake--are still present, as are reasonably authentic versions of ethnic dishes from around the world. Vietnamese pho noodles, quesadillas, brandade and Jamaican curried goat are all included.

The recipes come from an all-star cast of contributors, each a specialist in his or her own right. Alice Medrich (“Cocolat”) did cakes, and Jim Dodge (“The American Baker”) did American fruit desserts. Deborah Madison (“The Greens Cookbook”) contributed to the vegetable chapter, and Sylvia Thompson (“Kitchen Garden Cookbook”) did fruits.

Maybe the perfect solution is to buy the “Joy” for its background information, then search out the authors’ original works for the recipes.

Recipe for “Joy”

It is interesting to track similar recipes through the various editions. Although the concepts are remarkably constant--you don’t see a sudden addition of canned pineapple to the tuna fish casserole, say--the recipes themselves become more and more easy to use.

For salmon croquettes, the 1931 recipe was a stark “Follow the rule for croquettes,” referring you to another part of the book. In 1943, the recipe picked up a full list of ingredients.

In 1951, it stayed the same, but with a fairly adventurous (for the time) addition of a hint of anchovy paste. In 1975, it moves closer to a normal recipe, with the instruction to “chill, shape, bread and fry.” But it’s not until the new edition that those processes are spelled out in full detail.

More “Joy”

In addition to the new hardback version of the “Joy of Cooking,” there is a new paperback in stores as well. It’s not the 1997 revision, however. Because of a quirk in publishing contracts, the paperback edition of “Joy” must be the version prior to the new hardback: Thus, while the 1975 version has been available in hardback, the paper edition was that of 1963. With the 1997 revision, the 1975 edition will be issued paperbond.

SHRIMP AND AVOCADO TOSTADAS

Oil

4 corn tortillas

2 tablespoons lime juice

2 tablespoons minced cilantro, plus sprigs for garnish

1 teaspoon cumin

1 teaspoon coriander

Salt

Hot pepper sauce

1 pound shrimp, cooked, shelled and deveined

1 cup fresh or thawed frozen corn kernels

1/4 pound queso fresco or Jack cheese, shredded

1 avocado, peeled and coarsely chopped

2 plum tomatoes, chopped

1/2 red onion, minced

1/2 small head romaine or iceberg lettuce, finely shredded

This is a very authentic-tasting Mexican appetizer. The byplay of cilantro, lime juice and spice combines with shrimp, corn and avocados to make a dish that would be great for a light lunch or an elegant first course for dinner.

Heat 3/4 inch oil in medium skillet over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Fry 1 tortilla at a time, turning once, until crisp, about 1 minute per side. Shake off excess oil and drain on paper towels.

Whisk together 1/4 cup oil, lime juice, minced cilantro, cumin, coriander and salt and hot pepper sauce to taste in large bowl.

Add shrimp, corn, cheese, avocado, tomatoes, onion and more salt and hot pepper sauce to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

To serve, top each tortilla with shredded lettuce and divide shrimp mixture evenly over lettuce on each tortilla. Garnish with cilantro sprigs.

4 tostadas. Each tostada:

436 calories; 306 mg sodium; 59 mg cholesterol; 32 grams fat; 27 grams carbohydrates; 15 grams protein; 1.51 grams fiber.

PERSIMMON BUTTERMILK PUDDING

4 to 6 very ripe large persimmons

4 eggs

2 1/2 cups buttermilk

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted, plus extra for greasing dish

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 1/2 cups flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon salt

This is one of the best persimmon puddings ever, moist and dense and subtly spiced. Serve it either warm or cold with whipped cream or a sauce of your choice.

Remove pits from persimmons, then scrape pulp free from skins with teaspoon. Puree pulp in blender or food processor. If stringy, push pulp through sieve with back of spoon.

Whisk eggs until light in large bowl and beat in 1 1/2 cups persimmon pulp, buttermilk and melted butter.

Combine sugar, flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt in separate bowl and whisk to blend. Add dry ingredients to persimmon mixture and mix well.

Pour batter into buttered shallow 3-quart baking dish. Bake in water bath at 400 degrees until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 35 to 45 minutes.

8 servings. Each serving:

359 calories; 398 mg sodium; 124 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 62 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.25 gram fiber.

GRILLED FIVE-SPICE RIBS

2 stalks lemongrass

3 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons chopped shallots

2 tablespoons minced garlic

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 tablespoons five-spice powder

1 teaspoon chile bean paste

3 pounds spareribs or baby back ribs, separated into individual ribs, rinsed and patted dry

2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted, optional

These ribs come together amazingly easily once the marinade is made. They can be made a day ahead and merely grilled at the last minute, making them perfect party fare.

Peel and discard rough outside husks of lemongrass stalks, then thinly slice cores that remain.

Put sliced lemongrass, sugar, shallots, garlic, fish sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil, peanut oil, five-spice powder and chili bean paste in blender or food processor and puree.

Pour into large bowl and add ribs. Toss to coat each rib thoroughly. Cover and let stand at room temperature 1 hour or refrigerate up to 24 hours.

Prepare medium-hot charcoal fire or preheat broiler. Grill or broil ribs about 6 inches from heat source, turning frequently, until ribs are nicely browned and cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve immediately, sprinkled with sesame seeds if desired.

6 to 8 appetizer servings. Each of 8 servings:

315 calories; 513 mg sodium; 60 mg cholesterol; 25 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 0.55 gram fiber.

DEVIL’S FOOD CAKE COCKAIGNE

2 cups sugar

1/2 cup unsweetened non-alkalized cocoa

1 cup buttermilk or yogurt, at room temperature

2 cups sifted cake flour, plus extra for pans

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, at room temperature, plus extra for greasing pans

2 eggs, at room temperature

This is exactly what you want from a Devil’s Food Cake, rich and chocolaty, yet slightly bitter from the cocoa. Try making it with half white and half brown sugar. It needs to be frosted, either with your choice of chocolate frosting or glaze or simply with lightly sweetened whipped cream.

Whisk together 1 cup sugar, cocoa and 1/2 cup buttermilk. Sift together flour, baking soda and salt in separate bowl. Combine remaining 1/2 cup buttermilk and vanilla in another bowl or measuring cup.

Beat butter in large bowl until creamy, about 30 seconds. Gradually add remaining 1 cup sugar, beating at high speed until lightened in color and texture, 3 to 5 minutes. Beat in eggs, 1 at a time.

Beat in cocoa mixture. Add flour mixture in 3 parts, alternating with buttermilk mixture in 2 parts, beating at low speed or stirring with rubber spatula until smooth, scraping sides of bowl as necessary.

Scrape batter into greased and floured 9-inch tube pan or 2 (9-inch) round pans and spread evenly. (Round pans may instead be lined with wax or parchment paper.) Bake at 350 degrees until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 45 to 55 minutes for tube pan and 30 to 35 minutes for round pans. Let cool in pans on rack 10 minutes. Slide thin knife around cake to detach from pans. Invert cake to remove from pan and peel off paper liners if used. Let cool right side up on rack.

10 to 12 servings. Each of 12 servings:

293 calories; 209 mg sodium; 57 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 49 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 1.29 grams fiber.

BAKED MACARONI AND CHEESE

6 cups water

Salt

2 cups (8 ounces) elbow macaroni

3 tablespoons butter, plus extra for greasing pan

2 tablespoons flour

2 cups whole or skim milk

1/2 onion, minced

1 bay leaf

1/4 teaspoon sweet paprika

2 1/4 cups grated sharp Cheddar or Colby cheese

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs

This isn’t the normal gooey, cheesy macaroni and cheese. Instead it has a subtle onion flavor that makes it much more complex and interesting. One taster remarked that it reminded him of what macaroni and cheese must have tasted like before Kraft. The sauce can be made ahead and blended with just-cooked noodles before baking, or the entire casserole can be assembled a day in advance.

Bring water and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt to rolling boil in medium saucepan. Add macaroni and cook until just tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and put in large bowl.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in large saucepan over medium-low heat. Whisk in flour and cook, whisking constantly, 3 minutes. Gradually whisk in milk. Stir in onion, bay leaf and paprika. Simmer gently, stirring often, 15 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 1 1/2 cups cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove bay leaf.

Stir in macaroni. Pour half of mixture into greased deep 1 1/2-quart deep baking dish and sprinkle with half of remaining cheese. Top with remaining macaroni and remaining cheese.

Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter in small skillet over medium heat. Add bread crumbs and toss to coat. Sprinkle buttered crumbs over top of macaroni.

Bake at 350 degrees until bread crumbs are lightly browned, about 30 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes before serving.

4 to 6 main-course servings or 8 to 10 side-dish servings. Each of 8 side-dish servings:

320 calories; 436 mg sodium; 50 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 29 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 0.17 grams fiber.

SPICY PEANUT SESAME NOODLES

1 cup natural unsalted creamy peanut butter

1/4 cup rice or white vinegar

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

1 teaspoon dark soy sauce

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1 to 3 serrano or jalapen~o chiles, chopped

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup, plus 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon chile oil

1/2 cup freshly brewed black tea

4 to 4 1/2 quarts water

1 pound fresh Chinese egg noodles or dried spaghetti

1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into thin strips

Cilantro leaves

This traditional Chinese dish is served at room temperature as an appetizer, a lunch or a light supper. It is a delight of taste and texture, with soft noodles, creamy sauce, spicy chiles and the crunch of raw cucumbers. The original in the “Joy of Cooking” had a wonderfully complex flavor, but the sauce was too heavy. We reduced it by half and like the result very much.

Thoroughly blend peanut butter, vinegar, light and dark soy sauces, garlic, chiles, sugar and salt in food processor. Pour into medium bowl and stir in 1/4 cup sesame oil and chile oil. Gradually stir in tea until smooth. Sauce can be covered and refrigerated 1 to 10 days. Bring to room temperature before using.

Bring water to rolling boil in large pot. Add noodles and cook until softened, about 1 minute. Drain and rinse under cold water until cool. Drain and toss thoroughly with remaining 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil.

Place noodles in serving dish and top with 1/2 of sauce, stirring together slightly. Add more sauce to lightly coat noodles. Or serve on individual dinner plates topped with 3 to 4 generous tablespoons sauce per serving. Garnish with cucumber strips and cilantro.

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings:

559 calories; 780 mg sodium; 36 mg cholesterol; 38 grams fat; 43 grams carbohydrates; 17 grams protein; 1.65 grams fiber.

BROWNIES COCKAIGNE

1/4 pound unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, at room temperature

2 cups sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

4 eggs, at room temperature

1 cup flour

1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans

This recipe has appeared in “Joy” since the original 1931 edition and is the one Ethan Becker says is his favorite recipe in the cookbook. “This is my childhood. It is my all-time favorite comfort food from mixing bowl to baking pan.”

Melt chocolate and butter in large, heavy saucepan over very low heat, stirring constantly until smooth. Set aside to cool completely.

Stir in sugar and vanilla. Add eggs and stir until well combined. Stir in flour and walnuts until just combined.

Scrape batter into 13x9-inch baking pan lined with greased aluminum foil that overhangs narrow ends of pan by 2 inches and spread to edges.

Bake at 350 degrees on rack in center of oven until center is almost firm when lightly pressed and toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, but is still moist at the bottom, 23 to 28 minutes.

Remove pan to rack and let stand until completely cool. Using overhanging foil as handles, lift brownie to cutting board. Carefully peel off foil and cut into bars.

16 (2 1/4-inch) square or 24 (2 1/4-by 2-inch) bars. Each of 16 brownies:

287 calories; 19 mg sodium; 69 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 34 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.37 grams fiber.

MOROCCAN-STYLE VEGETABLE STEW

2 tablespoons butter or olive oil

2 onions, chopped

1 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable broth

1 teaspoon cumin

3/4 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon cardamom

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated or ground nutmeg

Pinch ground cloves

1 small (1 1/2 pounds) butternut squash, peeled, halved, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 large (10-ounce) baking potato, peeled, halved and cut into 3/4-inch pieces

3 carrots, cut into 1/4-inch slices

1/4 cup raisins

5 cloves garlic, minced

1 or 2 zucchini, halved lengthwise and cut into 1/3-inch slices

1 (15-ounce) can garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed

1/3 cup halved, pitted Kalamata or Nicoise olives

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup chopped parsley or cilantro

3 tablespoons lemon juice

Several drops hot pepper sauce

You won’t find this meatless dish in the final version of the cookbook. Serve it over a bed of warm couscous.

Heat butter in large Dutch oven. Add onions and cook over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in broth and simmer over medium-low heat, stirring often, until onions are very tender, about 20 minutes.

Combine cumin, chili powder, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves in large bowl. Stir in squash and potato.

Add squash mixture to onions along with carrots, raisins and garlic. Bring to simmer, then reduce heat to medium-low. Cover with sheet of foil placed directly on surface of vegetables, then with lid to pan. Simmer gently until vegetables are completely tender, about 25 minutes.

Stir in zucchini, garbanzo beans, olives, salt and pepper. Simmer, covered, until zucchini is tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in parsley, lemon juice and hot pepper sauce.

6 servings. Each serving:

447 calories; 319 mg sodium; 11 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 77 grams carbohydrates; 18 grams protein; 5.41 grams fiber.