Brave New Century : At Millennium, everyone looks like someone famous, the chef is familiar and the food is

Dining at Millennium, a new restaurant and bar just east of Joss’ on Sunset Boulevard at the West Hollywood-Beverly Hills border, we thought we saw Tammy Faye Bakker at the next table. Close, but not enough mascara. We thought we saw Dean Martin across the room, but remembered, too late, he is no longer with us. Everybody looked like somebody else. That woman in a honey-blond flip wearing a glittery Bob Mackie number fluttering her fingers at Tammy Faye? Mmmmm, is that . . . ? No, not quite.

The long dining room lined with half-moon booths upholstered in floral tapestry and decorated with pillars, a Roman bust or two, and feathery potted palms does have a kind of louche glamour, sort of a cross between Rick’s Place in “Casablanca” and a cheesy Chasen’s. The restaurant has an amiable chef who introduces himself and the specials and may just plop himself down at your table to chat for a minute or two. He’s David Slay, who used to own La Veranda in Beverly Hills, where he was known for his Sunday night grazing menu.

Prices here are a lot less expensive than those at his Beverly Hills place, where a plate of dry pasta with broccoli and hot pepper oil could cost $16.50. Here, angel hair with basil chiffonade and tomato sauce is just $10, and most main courses are well under $20. His variation on a Caesar, made with tender hearts of romaine and a little radicchio, has some real anchovy spunk. He’s making little tuna tartar tacos, and his signature smoked salmon quesadillas, too.

On this menu, chicken paillard makes a comeback, Chilean sea bass is paired with an orange jalapeno sauce, and pepper-encrusted tuna comes with a saute of spinach and pine nuts. Lamb chops are fine (and a real bargain at $17), but be wary of one unfortunate creation, veal scallopini rolled up with spinach and a dab of Vermont cheddar posed on a “nest” of spaghetti dressed with tomato and lemon salsa.

By the time we’d finished dinner, the dimly lit bar at the front was hopping as more and more disco-ducks piled in the door and the disc jockey set up his equipment in a back room furnished with low divans and flickering candles. I would have liked to stick around, if only to see Tammy Faye take the floor. Maybe I’ll get lucky next time.

BE THERE

Millennium, 9229 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; (310) 271-8355. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday; and Tuesday through Friday for lunch. Valet parking. Appetizers $6 to $9; main courses $10 to $17.