1995 Havens Merlot, Napa Valley ($20).

Havens’ elegant 1995 Merlot would turn just about anybody into a merlot fancier. Dark and velvety, with loads of sweet vibrant fruit and a hint of cranberries, it has enough acidity to make it ring like a bell and a beautiful finish. A great Merlot at a great price.

This would be a terrific match with Thanksgiving turkey. Keep the winery’s reserve Merlot in mind, too. It won’t be out till November, and then only at the winery; wine shops should have it in January.