A Night of Steak and Tango

My nose tells me I’ve arrived at the right Hancock Park estate to partake in a traditional Argentine asado, or barbecue. I am dressed in a seemingly impractical white suit that, as it turns out, goes well with the cocktail dresses and stiletto heels I encounter here. Yes, the asado might be a hefty, macho outdoor meal, but Argentine women, known for their elegance, will savor their meal, never smearing their make-up or allowing drippings to spatter their decolletage.

At an Argentine asado, glowing coals linger under the meat for hours, slowly roasting heaps of ribs, steaks and sausage--a pound per person is the usual portion--and exuding the tantalizing aroma of wood chips and charcoal that blends so well with the familiar smell of meat on the grill.

Tonight’s asado, at the home of Dr. Daniel Verdaquin and his wife, Susana, a space aeronautical engineer, is hosted by the Panamerican Foundation, a nonprofit group of Argentine and other South American expatriates who organize killer parties every couple of years to celebrate Latin American culture, music and food.

More than 300 guests roam the grounds where there will be a tango show and, later, dancing on the tennis court. I’m interested in the dancing, but I have really come to check out the prowess of the chef, Eduardo Fonseca. This is a man who, according to my Argentine friends, can take the taste of the pampas straight to your backyard, complete with gaucho garb and even lads on horseback if you so desire. (Fonseca also cooked at the Argentine beef event reported on in Scene, Oct. 8.)

But tonight Fonseca, 49, a tall, bearded man with sandy brown hair, is the only one in costume. He’s been a professional cook since he was 24 and now runs his own catering business based in Agoura Hills. Asados, sometimes called parrilladas, are just one of his specialties, but as a native Argentine, they are dear to him.

“We usually bring a waiter for every two tables,” he says, “but tonight it’s an informal affair.”

The informality is relative. Candle-lit round tables are set in the spacious garden under the stars. And at the far end the garden, alongside the gazebo, Fonseca has set up his monumental double-decker grills, on which more than 300 pounds of meat have been cooking for nearly an hour.

Slow cooking over steady heat is the secret behind the tastiness of the Argentine-style barbecue. The top trays of Fonseca’s grills hold the meat as it cooks; the bottom tray, nearly a foot away, holds slow-burning coals and wood. Although an asado is usually made up of many meat varieties, for tonight’s dinner, Fonseca is using fairly standard cuts that can be found in almost any supermarket. There are short ribs, Argentine sausage (similar to Italian sausage), blood sausage and skirt steaks. There’s chicken too because even in this primarily Argentine crowd, there are those who don’t eat red meat.

Meat is the point of an asado, but Fonseca’s salads are terrific. The typical criollita salad is made with green onions, tomatoes and green peppers. And potato salad is mixed with carrots, apples, eggs and a vinegar-spiked mayonnaise dressing, then garnished with green olives, hearts of palm, peas and pimientos.

Right up to the moment it’s time to serve, Fonseca keeps close watch over his grills, guarding from flare-ups and charring. He notes that there’s no such thing as rare or medium-rare in the Argentine parrillada; the cuts of meat used are best cooked well.

“It’s very simple, very typical food,” says host Daniel Verdaquin. “There’s really no big secret to it. You just have to be patient.”

And you need chimichurri sauce. Made from garlic, olive oil, vinegar and herbs, chimichurri is used to baste the meats as they cook or as a sauce at the table.

There are many chimichurri recipes, and virtually every ethnic group in Argentina claims the glory of creating and introducing the sauce to gaucho culture.

Fonseca makes no claims involving history with his chimichurri, but he is particularly proud of his version, which, he says, can stir up feelings of love. Indeed, he calls his chimichurri his “Love Potion.”

“I have yet to find a lady who doesn’t love it, garlic and all,” he says. “I wooed my wife into dating me with the help of chimichurri.”

Some hours later, long after the meat and dessert (pasta frolla, a fruit tart-like contraption), I watch the tango dancers slithering around the swimming pool and dozens of couples dancing cheek to cheek. Romance is in the air.

Hmmm. Maybe there’s something to Fonseca’s love potion story after all.

Menu

Mixed Argentine-Style Grill With Chimichurri

Criollita Salad

Argentine Potato Salad

INGREDIENTS

SHOPPING LIST

3 pounds flanken ribs

6 boneless chicken thighs

6 skirt, hanger or flank steaks

6 Italian sausages

1 bunch parsley

1 bunch fresh oregano

5 bunches green onions

1 1/2 pounds plum tomatoes

1 green bell pepper

1 red bell pepper

1 carrot

6 white potatoes

1 green apple

1 pound peas or 1 (10-ounce) package frozen peas

1 (3-ounce) jar stuffed green olives

1 (14-ounce) can hearts of palm

STAPLES

Bay leaves

Coarse or kosher salt

Cumin

Dijon-style mustard

Dried oregano

Dried thyme

Eggs

Garlic

Green olives

Mayonnaise

Olive oil

Onions

Red pepper flakes

Red wine vinegar

Sherry vinegar

Vanilla extract

Powdered sugar

COUNTDOWN

2 days to 1 hour before: Make Basting Chimichurri or Chimichurri No. 2.

3 hours before: Cook carrot, egg and potatoes for Argentine Potato Salad. Let cool and refrigerate until needed.

2 hours, 45 minutes before: Light fuel for grill.

2 1/2 hours to 2 hours and 15 minutes before: Let meats come to room temperature before grilling.

2 hours to 1 hour and 45 minutes before: Season meats (if not using Basting Chimichurri) and place on center of grill to slow-cook.

1 1/2 hours before: Combine ingredients for Argentine Potato Salad and refrigerate.

1 hour before: Chop ingredients for Criollita Salad.

40 minutes before: Assemble Criollita Salad and let stand at room temperature.

35 to 20 minutes before: Baste meats, if desired.

30 to 15 minutes before: Check meat for doneness and remove to serving platter.

15 minutes before: Garnish Argentine Potato Salad and set out with Criollita Salad, Mixed Grill and Chimichurri.

MIXED ARGENTINE-STYLE GRILL

3 pounds flanken ribs

6 boneless chicken thighs

6 skirt, hanger or flank steaks

6 Italian sausages

Basting Chimichurri or Chimichurri No. 2, optional

Coarse salt

Light fuel, preferably charcoal, in grill, allowing about 45 minutes to attain medium heat. When coals are ready, spread most to side of grill, making crown of coals around perimeter and leaving very few in center. This helps prevent flare-ups of flame when fat begins to drip during cooking.

Allow meats to come to room temperature before cooking. If not using Basting Chimichurri, season ribs, chicken and steaks with salt to taste and let stand 10 minutes.

Place ribs, bone side down, and chicken, steaks and sausages in center of grill and cook about 1 1/2 hours. Turn chicken, steaks and sausages once midway through cooking. Ribs are done when bones are white; chicken when juices run clear when pierced with fork; and steaks and sausages when browned all around. Be careful not to let fire flame; do not char meat.

About 5 minutes before removing meat from grill, baste with Basting Chimichurri (reserve some of Basting Chimichurri for serving). Serve with reserved Basting Chimichurri or Chimichurri No. 2 on side.

6 servings. Each serving, without chimichurri:

954 calories; 971 mg sodium; 284 mg cholesterol; 68 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 80 grams protein; 0 fiber.

BASTING CHIMICHURRI (IT’S A SNAP; LOW-FAT COOKING)

This chimichurri is ideal for basting. If you use this recipe, do not salt the meat before grilling. Let the solids sink to the bottom of the jar and baste with the flavored brine on top. The ingredients may easily be increased or decreased according to your personal taste.

1/4 cup kosher salt or 2 tablespoons regular salt

2 cups warm water

1 head garlic, cloves peeled and smashed

1 tablespoon dried oregano leaves

9 to 10 bay leaves

1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes or 3 tablespoons aji molido (see Chef’s Tip)

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon cumin

3 tablespoons olive oil

Dissolve salt in warm water in wide-mouth bottle or jar. Add garlic, oregano, bay leaves, red pepper flakes, vinegar, cumin and olive oil. Shake to combine. Make at least 1 hour before using and up to 2 days in advance.

Brush on meat during last 5 minutes of cooking or serve on side.

2 cups or enough for 30 pounds of meat. Each 1-tablespoon serving:

14 calories; 886 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.08 gram fiber.

CHIMICHURRI NO. 2 (IT’S A SNAP)

1 teaspoon kosher salt or 1/2 teaspoon regular salt

2 tablespoons hot water

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano or 1 tablespoon dried

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes or 3 teaspoons aji molido (see Chef’s Tip)

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 cup olive oil

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Dissolve salt in hot water in bowl.

Chop together garlic, and chopped oregano and parsley. Add to salt water. Add red pepper flakes, thyme, olive oil and vinegar and whisk to combine. Make at least 1 hour before using or up to 2 days in advance.

Brush on meat after removing from grill or serve on side with grilled meats.

About 1 cup. Each 1-tablespoon serving:

61 calories; 148 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 0 carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.05 gram fiber.

CRIOLLITA SALAD (IT’S A SNAP)

1 cup chopped green onions

2 cups diced plum tomatoes

1/2 cup chopped green bell pepper

2 tablespoons light olive oil

1 teaspoon coarse salt

1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

1 clove garlic, minced, optional

Combine green onions, tomatoes, bell pepper, olive oil, salt, vinegar, oregano and garlic in bowl 30 minutes before serving. Let stand at room temperature.

6 servings. Each serving:

60 calories; 399 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.57 gram fiber.

ARGENTINE POTATO SALAD

1 large carrot, cut into 1/2-inch dice

6 white potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard

1 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons Sherry or red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons finely minced onion

1 green apple, such as Granny Smith, cut into 1/2-inch dice, optional

2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced

Salt, pepper

1/2 cup chopped parsley

1 cup sliced hearts of palm

1/2 cup sliced stuffed green olives

1 cup cooked (fresh or frozen) green peas

1 roasted red bell pepper, cut in thin strips, or pimiento pieces

Cook carrot in boiling water to cover until medium tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and cool. Boil potatoes in water to cover until medium tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and cool.

Combine mustard, mayonnaise, vinegar and onion.

Put potatoes, carrots, apple and eggs in large bowl. Carefully fold in mayonnaise sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Put salad on oval platter and garnish with parsley, hearts of palm, olives, peas and roasted red pepper.

10 to 12 servings. Each of 10 servings:

149 calories; 345 mg sodium; 49 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.79 gram fiber.

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CHEF’S TIP

*Aji molido is the Argentine version of red pepper flakes and is available in Latino markets. If you substitute aji molido for regular crushed red pepper flakes in the chimichurri recipes, you may want to use up to three times as much because it’s a fairly mild spice.