Souffle Strategy

Souffles aren’t what you think they are.

There’s this image in our heads of a ‘50s sitcom housewife sweating as she blows a wisp of hair out of her face while she gingerly puts a souffle into the oven, then BAM!

Lots of door-slamming inevitably follows. Cut to a close-up of her look of horrified desperation as she brings a deflated mess out of the oven while her jovial dinner guests sit in the dining room drinking martinis, oblivious to the drama in the kitchen.

This is a scary picture for most cooks to get past. But remember, sitcoms aren’t real life.

Souffles do have a delicate structure. They can fall. But they are actually simple to make. And a fallen souffle is still a delicious souffle. Remember, even the most perfect souffle must be deflated to be eaten.

Still, souffle-making is easier if you know three basic techniques: how to separate eggs cleanly, how to beat egg whites to stiff peaks and how to fold ingredients together (see “Tips Toward Souffle Success,” H8).

There are also a few general rules. Don’t pour, but gently spoon the filling into the dish so that you don’t loose any of the volume from the beating of the egg whites. It’s important not to open the oven door during the first half of the baking time; the drastic reduction in oven temperature can cause the air that has begun to expand to rapidly deflate. And banging the oven door while the souffle is baking is analogous to sticking a pin into a balloon. These rules are not that difficult to follow.

Every souffle has two components: a full-flavored base and beaten egg whites, which are folded gently into the base before baking. Some bases are thickened with a roux (flour and butter), others are thickened with cornstarch, still others with pastry cream. Some are made with egg yolks and sugar, and some use a sugar syrup and fruit puree.

The different bases result in varying textures and stability. The sturdiest are made with a roux, especially if it is briefly reheated once the yolks are added. This results in a very stable structure, a slightly denser texture and less stress if you are new to souffle baking. If you prefer a lighter souffle, don’t reheat the base once the yolks are added. If you are a bit nervous about making a souffle, you can help stabilize the egg whites by adding 1/16th of a teaspoon of cream of tartar per egg white or about half a teaspoon of cornstarch to savory souffles or one or two tablespoons of sugar toward the end of beating the whites of a sweet one, even if the recipe doesn’t call for it.

The following recipes suggest which souffle dish sizes to use, but all of the recipes can be baked in any size souffle dish. The general rule of thumb is that if you use a half-cup ramekin, bake at 400 degrees for 13 to 15 minutes. It is a great size for individual desserts.

Some people may choose to cook souffles for a shorter period because they prefer a soft center. Do so at your own risk because of egg safety issues. For individual savory souffles, I like 1 2/3-cup dishes. These souffles cook best at 375 degrees for about 20 minutes. Large souffles can be cooked from 325 to 375 degrees for 20 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the type of souffle. The lower temperature will create a uniformly cooked souffle, and a 375- to 400-degree oven will create a softer center with the outer edges crisped.

The roasted garlic souffle is a wonderful complement to roasted or grilled meats. It is a great replacement for Yorkshire pudding and would complement any gravy or cream sauce well.

The Roquefort souffle, the porcini souffle and the smoked-salmon souffle are great appetizers for New Year’s Eve. I also highly recommend them for New Year’s Day brunch.

The cherry and the Grand Marnier souffles are the most delicate, but don’t let that discourage you or you will miss out on a great treat. Look for dried tart cherries. (They can be found in many stores, including Trader Joe’s.)

Souffles have the reputation for being wildly high in fat and calories. Some are--and well worth the splurge. But for those who are fat-conscious, the porcini souffle and the cherry souffle are very low in fat, though you may need to be prudent in adding sauces.

Souffles are celebration food. How perfect to bring in the New Year with a piece of culinary magic. So gently make that souffle, dig in and then bring out the noisemakers and fireworks.

Porcini Souffle with Parmesan Cream Sauce and White Truffle Oil

Active Work Time: 40 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours

Porcini and truffles are a great pair, but even in season, truffles are wildly pricey. White truffle oil can provide the wonderful flavor without breaking your bank account.

1 1/2 ounces dried porcini or shiitake mushrooms

2 cups boiling water

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons olive oil

2 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 shallot, minced

1/4 cup cornstarch

1 teaspoon salt

6 egg whites

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Parmesan Cream Sauce

2 tablespoons white truffle oil, optional

* Place dried mushrooms in small bowl. Pour boiling water over and let them soak 20 minutes. Drain mushrooms, reserving soaking liquid. Strain liquid through cheesecloth.

* Process mushrooms in food processor or blender until pieces are size of red pepper flakes.

* Grease souffle dish with 2 teaspoons olive oil. Sprinkle dish with Parmesan as if dusting with flour.

* Heat remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium-low heat in small skillet. Add garlic and shallot and cook, stirring often, until softened and aromatic, 3 to 5 minutes.

* Add cornstarch and gradually whisk in 1 1/2 cups reserved porcini liquid, making up difference with water if necessary. Raise heat to medium-high and bring to liquid to boil, stirring constantly. Boil until thickened, about 3 minutes. Place mixture in large bowl. Add mushrooms and salt. Let mixture cool to room temperature.

* Beat egg whites and cream of tartar to stiff peaks. Fold 1/4 of beaten egg whites into mushroom mixture. Fold in remainder of beaten egg whites. Spoon into souffle dish and bake at 325 degrees until thin metal tester or toothpick comes out clean, about 1 hour. Serve immediately, topping each serving with Parmesan Cream Sauce and 1 teaspoon white truffle oil.

6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings, without Parmesan Cream Sauce: 123 calories; 455 mg sodium; 10 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.65 grams fiber.

Parmesan Cream Sauce

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 10 minutes

This sauce is great not only on a souffle but can be tossed with pasta for a quick, elegant dinner. If you serve it with pasta, try adding a few drops of white truffle oil just before serving for extra flavor. (If you stir truffle oil into the sauce, note that it will separate; just stir it before serving.)

1 clove garlic, cut in half

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon flour

1 cup milk

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Rub small skillet with cut edges of garlic clove. Leave clove in pan. Add butter and melt over low heat. Stir in flour and cook 3 to 5 minutes over very low heat. Stir in milk; bring to boil. Remove from heat and add cheese, stirring until melted.

1 1/4 cups. Each tablespoon: 18 calories; 35 mg sodium; 3 mg cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0 fiber.

Smoked-Salmon and Asparagus Souffle With Horseradish and Chive Creme Frai^che Sauce

Active Work Time: 40 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

This makes a great brunch dish and is also nice for lunch or an appetizer.

3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon butter

1 (2-inch) piece fresh horseradish, grated

3 tablespoons flour

1 1/2 cups milk or 3/4 cup milk plus 3/4 cup whipping cream

8 eggs, separated

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill plus extra sprigs for garnish

1 1/2 tablespoons snipped chives

3/4 pound smoked salmon

1 to 2 bunches medium to thin asparagus, about 18 to 24 stalks

Horseradish and Chive Creme Frai^che Sauce

* Butter souffle dish with 1 teaspoon butter. Sprinkle dish with horseradish as if dusting with flour.

* Melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter over low heat. Add flour and cook, stirring frequently, 3 to 5 minutes. Do not let brown.

* Whisk in milk, stirring constantly. Bring to boil, reduce to simmer and cook until thickened, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add egg yolks 1 at a time, stirring well to incorporate after each addition. Stir in salt, pepper, dill and chives.

* Put mixture into food processor. Slice salmon into 1/4-inch strips and add to processor. Puree 30 to 45 seconds, stopping periodically to wipe down sides of chamber with spatula. Transfer to large bowl.

* Chop tough ends off asparagus and discard. Cut off tips plus 2 inches, then cut remainder of stalks into slices 1/8 inch long. Reserve tips for garnish. Add cut asparagus stalks to salmon mixture and mix to distribute evenly.

* Beat egg whites to stiff peaks. Fold 1/4 of whites into salmon mixture, then fold in remaining whites. Spoon gently into souffle dish. Bake until thin metal tester or toothpick comes out clean, 50 minutes. Garnish with asparagus tips and dill and serve immediately with Horseradish Chive Creme Frai^che Sauce.

6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings, without Horseradish Chive Creme Frai^che Sauce: 367 calories; 1243 mg sodium; 296 mg cholesterol; 29 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 21 grams protein; 0.41 grams fiber.

Horseradish Chive Creme Frai^che Sauce

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 10 minutes

1/2 cup whipping cream

1/2 cup creme frai^che

2 tablespoons snipped chives

1 tablespoon dill

2 teaspoons prepared horseradish

1/4 teaspoon salt

* Whisk cream into creme frai^che. Add chives, dill, horseradish and salt. Serve at room temperature.

1 cup. Each tablespoon: 51 calories; 43 mg sodium; 20 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 1 grams protein; 0.02 gram fiber.

Twice-Baked Roasted Garlic Souffle

Active Work Time: 50 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours 30 minutes

This is a great accompaniment to grilled or roasted meats. This souffle tastes wonderful on its own but, but the Parmesan Cream Sauce, bechamel sauce or even a gravy made from roasted meats tops this souffle nicely. To save time, you can substitute 1/4 cup of commercial pureed garlic instead of making the Garlic Puree from scratch. Note that this is one of the few souffles that can be made ahead of time.

GARLIC PUREE

4 heads garlic

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

* Remove outer layer of garlic skin, leaving 1 layer intact. Cut heads in half horizontally. Place cut-side-up in 8-inch glass dish. Drizzle olive oil over garlic and sprinkle with salt. Cover and bake at 400 degrees 45 minutes. Remove cover, and roast 10 more minutes. Cool.

* Squeeze cloves out of their skins or use toothpick to get cloves out. Puree in food processor, preferably small one, or use mortar and pestle to mash cloves.

SOUFFLE

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon butter

3 tablespoons fine dry bread crumbs

1/2 cup flour

2 cups milk

Salt, pepper

8 egg yolks

9 egg whites

* Grease 15 (1/2-cup) ramekins with 1 tablespoon butter and sprinkle dishes with bread crumbs as if dusting with flour.

* Melt remaining 1/2 cup butter. Add flour. Cook 3 to 5 minutes over low heat, stirring frequently.

* Meanwhile, bring milk to boil in separate saucepan.

* Add boiled milk and salt and pepper to taste to butter-flour mixture, whisking well. When fully incorporated and thickened, remove from heat. Add egg yolks, 1 at a time, mixing well between additions. Add garlic, mixing well to fully incorporate. Transfer to large bowl and cool.

* Beat egg whites until stiff peaks form. Fold 1/4 of beaten egg whites into garlic mixture. Fold in remaining beaten egg whites.

* Spoon mixture into prepared ramekins. Level off tops. Place your thumb just inside upper ramekin rim and clean edge of rim.

* Bake at 375 degrees until thin metal tester or toothpick comes out clean, 20 minutes. Remove souffles from oven and cool 30 minutes. They will deflate a little.

* Gently use knife to loosen edges. Invert into your palm and place upright on baking dish. You may keep covered in refrigerator up to 2 days before continuing.

* Bake souffles at 400 degrees 5 minutes, until reheated and slightly puffed.

15 servings. Each serving: 155 calories; 171 mg sodium; 166 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.11 grams fiber.

Cherry Souffle With Chocolate Ganache

Active Work Time: 40 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 10 minutes

Dried cranberries can be substituted for the dried cherries, but make the effort to look for the cherries--with them, the souffle is one of the best desserts you’ll ever eat.

1 tablespoon butter, softened

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar

1 (8-ounce) package dried tart cherries

Water

3 tablespoons kirsch

5 egg whites

Chocolate Ganache

* Grease 10 ramekins with butter and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sugar as if dusting with flour. Invert ramekins to release excess sugar.

* Bring cherries and water to cover, about 2 cups, to boil in small saucepan. Reduce heat and let cherries simmer 30 minutes. Stir periodically and check to make sure there is liquid in pan, adding 1 or 2 tablespoons water as needed. After 30 minutes, no liquid should at bottom of pan.

* Add kirsch to cherries and puree or blend until lumpy paste is formed. Set aside.

* Mix remaining 1 cup sugar and 2 tablespoons water in small saucepan. Wash sides of pan down with wet pastry brush so that no sugar granules are left above wet sugar. Bring sugar to boil without stirring until mixture reaches hard ball stage or 260 degrees on candy thermometer, about 5 minutes. Add pureed cherries. Heat mixture until it boils. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.

* Whip egg whites until stiff peaks form. Fold 1 cup egg whites into cherry mixture. Fold in remaining egg whites. Spoon into prepared ramekins. Bake at 400 degrees until sides appear dry, about 13 minutes. Remove from oven, and pour 1 to 2 tablespoons Chocolate Ganache into each souffle. Serve immediately.

10 servings. Each serving, without Chocolate Ganache: 241 calories; 42 mg sodium; 20 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 41 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.44 grams fiber.

Chocolate Ganache

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 10 minutes

1/2 cup whipping cream

1/2 cup semisweet chocolate, chopped

* Bring cream to boil.

* Pour hot cream over chocolate. Stir until melted.

1 cup. Each tablespoon: 39 calories; 3 mg sodium; 10 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 0 grams protein; 0.03 grams fiber;

Roquefort Souffle

Active Work Time: 45 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

This souffle is wonderfully rich and goes well with an arugula salad dressed with balsamic vinaigrette. Note that the better the cheese, the better the souffle.

7 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons fine dry bread crumbs

6 tablespoons flour

1 1/2 cups milk

Salt

6 egg yolks

3/4 cup Roquefort or other blue cheese, crumbled

1/3 cup cream cheese

7 egg whites

1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

* Grease souffle dish with 1 tablespoon butter and sprinkle with bread crumbs as if dusting with flour. Invert dish to release excess crumbs.

* Melt remaining 6 tablespoons butter in saucepan over low heat. Add flour and stir frequently over low heat 5 minutes. Do not let brown.

* Bring milk and pinch of salt to boil. Add to flour-butter mixture. When fully incorporated and very thick, beat in egg yolks 1 at a time. Add crumbled Roquefort and cream cheese, stirring over low heat to incorporate well. Set aside.

* Whip egg whites and cornstarch until stiff peaks form. Fold 1/4 of whites into cheese mixture. Fold in remaining whites. Spoon into prepared souffle dish. Bake at 375 degrees 45 minutes to 1 hour or until thin metal tester or toothpick comes out clean.

6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings: 252 calories; 388 mg sodium; 248 mg cholesterol; 19 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 0.02 gram fiber.

Grand Marnier Souffle With Blood Orange Whipped Cream and Candied Orange Zest

Active Work Time: 1 hour * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours 15 minutes

Use a zester or vegetable peeler to remove only the orange-red zest of the fruit, not the white pith. If pith remains on peel, remove it by placing zest white-side-up on counter and using a small knife to scrape it off.

1 tablespoon butter

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

Zest of 1 blood orange

4 egg yolks

1/4 cup orange-flavored liqueur such as Grand Marnier

6 egg whites

3 teaspoons powdered sugar

Blood Orange Whipped Cream

Candied Blood Orange Zest

* Lightly grease 8 (1/2-cup) ramekins with 1 tablespoon butter and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons sugar as if dusting with flour. Invert each ramekin to release excess sugar.

* Cut blood orange zest into 1/2-inch pieces.

* Process zest pieces and remaining 1/2 cup sugar in food processor until zest and sugar are well combined and only tiny pieces of zest remain.

* Beat 4 eggs yolks with orange sugar until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add Grand Marnier and beat 2 to 3 minutes until fully incorporated.

* Beat egg whites in separate bowl until stiff peaks form.

* Beat orange mixture well just before folding in 1 cup egg white mixture. Fold in remaining egg whites.

* Spoon gently into prepared ramekins. Bake at 400 degrees 10 minutes, then sift powdered sugar onto top of souffles. Serve immediately with Blood Orange Whipped Cream and garnish cream with Candied Blood Orange Zest.

8 servings. Each serving, without Blood Orange Whipped Cream or Candied Blood Orange Zest: 136 calories; 57 mg sodium; 140 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0 fiber.

Blood Orange Whipped Cream

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes

Juice of 4 blood oranges, about 1 1/3 cups

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon orange-flavored liqueur such as Grand Marnier

3/4 cup whipping cream

* Bring juice and sugar to boil in small skillet. If you want to cook off alcohol, add liqueur now after juice comes to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until juice reduces to about 3/4 cup, about 5 minutes. Cool.

* Whip cream until stiff. Gradually stir in orange syrup. Add orange-flavored liqueur now if you haven’t done so. Stir to incorporate.

3/4 cup. Each tablespoon: 75 calories; 6 mg sodium; 21 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 0 grams protein; 0.03 gram fiber.

Candied Blood Orange Zest

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

Use a zester or vegetable peeler to remove only the orange-red zest of the fruit, not the white pith.

Zest of 1 blood orange

2 1/2 cups sugar

Water

* Slice blood orange zest into long pieces about 1/8-inch wide.

* Blanch zest by dropping into about 3 cups boiling water 1 minute. Drain.

* Bring 2 cups sugar and 2 cups water to boil in saucepan. Add zest and bring to boil. Reduce heat and let zest simmer about 1 hour, checking occasionally to make sure liquid is reducing. Increase heat if liquid is not reducing.

* Remove zest from pan and put in bowl with remaining 1/2 cup sugar. Separate and toss zest well in sugar. Leave zest in sugar until dry. Discard extra sugar.

1/4 cup zest. Each teaspoon: 481 calories; 1 mg sodium; 0 mg cholesterol; 0 fat; 125 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0 grams fiber.

*

Crystal and dinnerware in photos above and on the cover from Windows, Pasadena.