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New World Fusion

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Mandel's latest book is "Celebrating the Midwestern Table" (Doubleday & Co., 1996)

The fusion of flavors and cultures that is New World cuisine--Latin, Caribbean, Asian and American--moves easily from spring into summer entertaining. Excellent examples are a Shanghai noodle salad, spicy East-West barbecued veal chops that pair well with rice or corn on the cob and a lightly textured cheesecake from Norman Van Aken, chef-proprietor of Norman’s in Miami.

NORMAN VAN AKEN’S EAST-WEST BARBECUED VEAL CHOPS

1/4 cup roasted Spanish peanuts

1 1/4 tablespoons hot chile oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

3/4 tablespoon minced ginger root

1 tablespoon minced shallots

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

/4 cup Sherry vinegar

2 tablespoons hoisin sauce

2 tablespoon Asian hot chile sauce

2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 1/2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil

2 1/2 tablespoons plum sauce

2 1/2 tablespoons honey

4 (1-inch-thick) veal chops, trimmed

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Puree peanuts and chile oil in food processor. Add garlic, ginger, shallots, cilantro, vinegar, hoisin sauce, hot chile sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil, plum sauce and honey and pulse until mixed. (Marinade can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated.)

Place chops in single layer in shallow glass dish. Pour 1/2 marinade over chops, turning to coat. Marinate in refrigerator at least 6 hours but no more than 12. Reserve remaining marinade for sauce.

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Let chops come to room temperature before cooking. Remove from marinade and shake off excess. Discard marinade. Season chops with salt and pepper to taste.

Grease grill grate or broiler rack. Grill chops over high heat, turning as necessary to prevent scorching, until seared on both sides, 7 to 10 minutes for medium rare, depending on thickness of chops. Or broil about 8 inches from heat source, turning as necessary to prevent scorching, until seared on both sides, about 8 minutes for medium rare. Insert point of sharp knife into thickest part of chop to check for doneness.

Let rest on warm platter 5 minutes before serving. Serve hot and pass reserved sauce.

4 servings. Each serving:

316 calories; 1,949 mg sodium; 57 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 24 grams carbohydrates; 17 grams protein; 0.79 gram fiber.

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SHANGHAI NOODLE SALAD

Van Aken suggests serving this salad with any smoked meat, such as chicken, ham or flank steak.

DRESSING

3/4 teaspoon finely minced garlic

3/4 teaspoon finely minced ginger root

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 1/2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil

1 1/2 teaspoons hot chile oil

1/2 teaspoon sugar, optional

SALAD

7 1/2 ounces Asian thin noodles

1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil

2 cups thinly sliced mixed vegetables, such as nappa or red cabbage, carrot, green onions, cucumber, daikon, blanched snow peas or asparagus and red bell pepper

1 cup diced avocado

1 cup diced firm tofu

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

DRESSING

Combine garlic, ginger, cilantro, salt, pepper, vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, chile oil and sugar in small bowl. (Dressing may be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated. Let come to room temperature before using.)

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SALAD

Cook noodles in plenty of boiling water until just tender to the bite, about 3 minutes or according to package directions.

Toss noodles with sesame oil and chill.

Combine chilled noodles and vegetables in large bowl and keep chilled until ready to serve.

Gently toss noodles and vegetables with Dressing to coat. Add avocado and tofu and gently mix. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide among chilled plates and serve immediately.

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings:

345 calories; 583 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 19 grams fat; 37 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein; 1.06 grams fiber.

NORMAN’S CHEESECAKE

If you can’t find passion fruit juice, 2 tablespoons orange juice and 2 tablespoons lemon juice will work just as well.

CRUST

1 cup graham cracker crumbs

3/4 cup toasted ground almonds

1/3 cup sugar

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/3 cup melted butter

FILLING

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1 pound cream cheese, at room temperature

4 eggs, separated, at room temperature

1 cup sour cream, at room temperature

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 cup unsweetened passion fruit juice

CRUST

Mix crumbs, almonds, sugar, cinnamon and butter in 1-quart mixing bowl until thoroughly combined.

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Spread evenly in greased 10-inch springform pan, the base of which has been wrapped on outside with foil to prevent leakage. Using plastic wrap, compress mixture firmly and evenly over bottom and about 1 inch up sides of pan. Set aside.

FILLING

Mix 3/4 cup sugar and cream cheese on low speed of electric mixer until creamy, about 1 minute. Add egg yolks and mix 5 minutes. Add sour cream and mix 1 minute. Add vanilla and passion fruit juice and mix until blended, about 15 seconds.

Beat egg whites to soft peaks in separate bowl. Add remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and continue beating until just firm but still moist. Fold into cream cheese mixture.

Pour filling into prepared pan, then spread evenly. Place on baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees until lightly browned, about 1 hour. Loosen cheesecake from sides of pan with thin, flexible knife. Let rest 10 minutes. Carefully release sides of springform pan. Cool at room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until well chilled, preferably overnight.

To serve, dip sharp knife into hot water and cut into wedges. Serve chilled.

12 to 14 servings. Each of 14 servings:

359 calories; 209 mg sodium; 115 mg cholesterol; 26 grams fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 0.57 gram fiber.

* Vietri “Compagna” plate and bowl from Jordano’s, Santa Barbara, and The Pottery Shack, Laguna Beach.

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