At Campanile, a Special Night for the Grilled Cheese Sandwich

Thursday nights, it’s grilled cheese sandwich night at Campanile. The California-Mediterranean restaurant is, of course, serving its regular menu. But on Thursdays, Nancy Silverton, the restaurant’s co-owner and the genie behind Campanile’s pastries and La Brea Bakery’s terrific breads, riffs on the grilled cheese sandwich and the tartine, or French open-faced sandwich, theme.

Behind the bar, she and another cook read off the orders--three classics, two No. 3s, one No. 8. And get to work slathering thick slices of country bread with aioli or romesco (a Catalan sauce of sweet red peppers and almonds), adding the Gruyere or Manchego and toasting the sandwiches in two special presses.

I’m partial to the classic, with its filling of tangy melted Gruyere. The press gives the sandwich a corrugated toasted surface that’s irresistible. And like all the cheese sandwiches, it comes with glorious fries, and a peppery arugula salad.

Mmmm, there’s a substantial Croque Monsieur, too, the Parisian ham ‘n’ cheese sandwich made with a moist pink ham with a slight salt tang, aged Gruyere melded between the bread, and topped with a thick dreamy layer of cheese-laced bechamel sauce. Croque Madame eschews the bechamel for a simple fried egg.

There’s also a cheese sandwich with burrata (that’s mozzarella with a heart of cream) and golden tomatoes, another of Manchego (a Spanish sheep’s milk cheese) and marinated eggplant. The version I can’t get out of my mind (and it’s not offered every week) is the open-face sandwich topped with salt-cured anchovies, hard-boiled egg and soft braised leeks. Its bold, vibrant flavors encompass everything I love.

With your sandwich, you can drink the dark Austrian beer Gosser, or Czech Pilsner Urquell on tap. Or choose from a fine selection of wines by the glass. And for dessert, well, I don’t think there’s anyone with resolve strong enough not to indulge in one of Silverton’s superlative sweets.

BE THERE

Campanile, 624 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles; (213) 938-1447. Grilled cheese, Thursday night only, $9.50 to $10.75. In addition to the restaurant’s regular menu. Valet parking.