1997 Bodegas Nekeas “Vega Sindoa” Tempranillo-Merlot, Navarra, Spain (About $5)

The label’s not much to look at, but it’s what’s in the bottle that counts, right? This supple Spanish red from the Navarra region (which doesn’t command nearly the prices of wines from the more renowned Rioja and Ribera del Duero regions) is mostly Tempranillo with 30% Merlot, giving it the silky texture of a Pinot Noir and enough complexity to make the modest price a surprise. Just one example of why Spanish wines are making a major impact for their quality-price ratio. Few wines can compete in this price range, and restaurants are snapping it up to sell by the glass. A good party wine.