Palomino Euro Bistro Rides In

The long-dull Westwood dining scene is finally starting to wake up. First, Maui Beach Cafe arrived with its rare Pacific seafoods, and Tanino brought Italian food to the old Alice’s Restaurant spot. Now here comes a flashy, art-filled space complete with panoramic windows, a glorious beige marble floor and flashy chandeliers designed to look as if they were made of real Merano glass. Palomino Euro Bistro is the latest branch of an upscale chain operated by Restaurants Unlimited, the company behind such restaurants as the recently shuttered Stepps in downtown L.A.

The concept here is a romantic interpretation of a European bistro (though let’s face it--only an American restaurateur would think to create atmosphere by using fake palm trees; hey, guys, don’t pay too much attention to Maui Beach Cafe). The restaurant uses excellent ingredients, but it’s off to a somewhat shaky start. Par for the course for opening week, maybe, but it actually took the kitchen three tries to roast Atlantic salmon in its wood oven the way it was described on the menu. The first time, the chef burned it; the second time, somebody forgot the wrapping of Spanish serrano ham. Still, it was delicious when it came out right.

The oven-roasted Penn Cove mussels, an appetizer, comes with sizzling rosemary butter. A wonderfully crunchy spit-roasted lamb shank is accompanied by nice side dishes: pearl onions, baby carrots, roasted garlic and a full-flavored creamy risotto. The entree salads and a variety of thin-crusted pizzas make reliable choices.

The huge bar area is luxurious, but you probably have to be in your 20s to love the slushy, cloying house cocktail, the Palini. Harry’s Bar can rest easy.

BE THERE

Palomino Euro Bistro, 10877 Wilshire Blvd., #150, Los Angeles; (310) 208-1960. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Dinner for two, food only, $34-$72. Valet parking.