English Peas
Fresh peas are at their peak in March, April and May. No matter how they’re prepared, their brilliant green color and fresh taste fairly scream of spring.
* Aubergine: Chef-owner Tim Goodell offers two sophisticated appetizers: agnolotti filled with mascarpone and pureed peas, served in brown butter with shaved black truffles (on the five-course menu), and a poached half-lobster with a beet and pea fricassee in truffle vinaigrette (on the nine-course menu). (Five-course menu, $75; nine-course menu, $90.) Aubergine, 508 29th St., Newport Beach, (949) 723-4150.
* La Cachette: Jean-Francois Meteigner makes a light cold soup from peas, leeks, onions, cucumbers and a touch of mint, and serves it in a cappuccino cup topped with a foam of milk and pistachio paste. (Chilled pea and cucumber soup, $6.50.) La Cachette, 10506 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, (310) 470-4992.
* Jozu: Picture a steamed wonton of English peas and a large tiger shrimp with delicate lobster reduction on top. (Tiger siumai with English peas and lobster sauce, $9.) Jozu, 8360 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (323) 655-5600.
* Cicada: Chef Christian Shaffer sautes small tender Santa Barbara shrimp and arranges them on a delicate spring pea mousse covered with caramelized onions, the whole thing dressed with a truffle vinaigrette. (Sauteed Santa Barbara shrimp with spring pea mousse, caramelized onions and truffle vinaigrette, $15.) Cicada, 617 S. Olive St., Los Angeles, (213) 488-9488.
* Granita: Wolfgang Puck’s Malibu spot serves plump tortellini filled with sweet pea puree and a touch of pecorino cheese. They’re splashed with a porcini reduction, morels, spring onions and prosciutto. (Sweet pea tortellini with morel mushrooms, spring onions, prosciutto and Tuscan pecorino, $17.) Granita, 23725 W. Malibu Road, Malibu, (310) 456-0488.
* Water Grill: Head downtown for chef Michael Cimarusti’s poached lobster. The lobster comes in a bright red coral sauce accompanied by peas, pea tendrils, pearl onions and baby carrots in a puree of peas, chicken stock and olive oil. (Poached Maine lobster with a ragu of sweet pea, pearl onions and baby carrots with sweet pea sauce and lobster coral, $34.) Water Grill, 544 S. Grand Ave., L.A., (213) 891-0900.