1991 Muga Prado Enea “Gran Reserva,” Rioja

Muga Prado Enea makes one of the Rioja’s most distinguished wines in the classic style. The 1991, now arriving in the shops, is a warm burnished red, the color of autumn leaves. And its scent--principally leather and cigars--deepens and changes as the wine opens in the glass. Although this wine is 9 years old and has developed the beautiful secondary aromas that only age can give a great wine, it tastes much younger, which means it should keep improving in years to come.

That is, if anyone can resist drinking it now. This is one of the best Prado Eneas I’ve ever tasted. All it needs to show it off is a simple roast.

About $30. Available at fine wine shops. If you can’t find this wine, ask your retailer to call the distributor, Associated Wines, (707) 963-8055.