A Swell Time

The county received a reprieve from soggy weather Tuesday--just right for some experienced surfers taking advantage of high, stormy swells--but forecasters were expecting more rain to fall around the county starting early this morning.

A series of small storms sliding over the Pacific from Asia is expected to drop more rain through the week and possibly into next week. Forecasters predicted off-and-on showers all day today, with rains tapering off by Thursday but cloudy skies remaining through the end of the week. Another storm is expected to roll into the county on Sunday with the possible arrival of yet another on Tuesday, said Dennis Tussey, a meteorologist at the National Weather Service office in Oxnard.

The service issued a heavy-surf advisory Tuesday, warning beach-goers of rough waves at the county’s west-facing beaches. The swells averaged 4 to 6 feet during the day with some breakers surging to 12 feet.

“It’s getting pretty big out there right now, but it’s not breaking the pier,” said Jack Futoran, a lifeguard at San Buenaventura State Beach. “This time of year, with this kind of weather, we’re getting pretty good swells every two weeks.”

Surfers and others said Tuesday’s surf was milder than the 9-foot waves that hit at the beginning of last week and gave the Ventura Pier its first test since its $1.9-million renovation. The rough stuff should last at least a couple of days, said Joshua Bemus, a meteorologist with WeatherData Inc., which provides forecasts for The Times. “When you get a lot of storms coming through, there’s not a lot of chance for the ocean to calm down.”

Patrols at Channel Islands and Ventura harbors reported no problems, a change of pace from last week when several boats capsized or were sent adrift and Island Packers canceled its whale-watching tours.

But Scott Miller, Ventura Harbor operations manager, downplayed even those swells.

“If the Hawaiian Chieftain can get in and out, it just shows we haven’t had much trouble,” he said, referring to the replica of a 19th century tall ship docked at Ventura Harbor.

Futoran said high waves--or ignorance of their existence--were keeping many surfers away from his beach, but at the Rincon, north of Ventura, surfers were out in force.

“If there’s someone just learning it’s not a good time for them out there,” said Seth Gibson, who works at Ventura Surf Shop. “But, right now there’s not that much wind, so the conditions are pretty good.”

Experts warned wave-watchers not to edge out onto shoals or rock formations.

“This doesn’t bother experienced surfers,” said meteorologist Tussey. “But the waves can sweep over a rock even if it looks dry. For people fishing and observing waves, it can be dangerous.”