Wine of the Week

Yes, there is a Burgundy under $15 that’s eminently drinkable. This St. Veran from Verget shows what a wonderful vintage combined with skilled winemaking can do for a lesser-known appellation. Verget’s 1998 full-bodied T^ete de Cuvee tastes more of minerals and citrus than most California Chardonnays, yet it isn’t too lean. There’s plenty of flesh on its bones. A Montrachet it is not, but a good summer wine that drinks well at a good price.

Serve it well-chilled as a summer aperitif or with grilled seafood.

About $16. Available at fine wine shops. If you can’t find this wine, have your retailer call Estate Wines, (415) 492-9411.