Diver Scallops

These large, sweet scallops are a seasonal delicacy not to be missed.

* Mako: This chic new restaurant offers a daily scallop special, perhaps with black beans and black French truffles, or in red wine reduction with sweet soy and ginger, or with red wine, wild mushroom stock and foie gras. (Scallop special, $25 to $28.) Mako, 225 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 288-8338.

* Water Grill: Chef Michael Cimarusti swears by ultra-fresh diver scallops from Stonington, Maine. He roasts them and serves them with salsify root in brown butter vinaigrette with toasted walnuts, honey and Sherry vinegar on a bed of ma^che lettuce with two long salsify chips. (Nancy’s hand-harvested diver scallops, $28.) Water Grill, 544 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 891-0900.

* Michael’s: Try Michael’s surf and turf, a diver scallop appetizer. Chef Sang Yoon sears the scallops, sautes sweetbreads crisp and layers them both with an herb-frisee salad dressed in porcini oil. Then he sprinkles it all with a carrot-cumin emulsion. (Surf and turf, $15.) Michael’s, 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, (310) 451-0843.

* Cienega: This elegant spot in the heart of West Hollywood serves seared diver scallops on small, crisp potato-scallion pancakes with a wilted salad of spinach, chives and parsley. A slightly creamy Sherry reduction sauce delicately ornaments the plate. (Seared diver sea scallop with potato scallion pancakes and wilted herb salad, $10.50.) Cienega, 730 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 358-8585.

* Troquet: Here diver scallops are always seared on one side until golden brown and sprinkled with fleur de sel sea salt. Then, depending on the kitchen’s mood, they’re either served in a brown butter and caper vinaigrette with braised artichokes and potato puree, or with chanterelles and mushroom jus on a heap of creamy mashed potatoes. (Maine diver scallops, lunch $19.50, dinner $23.) Troquet, South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, (714) 708-6865.

* Pinot Bistro: Joachim Splichal’s Cal-French bistro serves a truly decadent scallop appetizer. The scallop is cut in half and stuffed with osetra caviar, lightly dusted with almond meal and sauteed until crisp on the outside, medium-rare on the inside. It’s finished off with a light lobster tarragon sauce and comes with grilled asparagus, enoki mushrooms and baby bok choy. (Scallops and caviar en crou^te, $9.95.) Pinot Bistro, 12969 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 990-0500.