1997 Bruno Giacosa Barbera D’Alba, Piedmont

It is Barbera, rather than the Nebbiolo that goes into Barbaresco and Barolo, that is the Piedmont’s beloved grape for everyday red wine. And now that winemakers there are giving Barbera the same exacting attention they lavish on their higher-priced, better known wines, Barbera is definitely coming up in the world.

This 1997 Barbera d’Alba from one of the region’s most distinguished winemakers is a perfect entry-level Barbera. It tastes of sweet, ripe fruit, and in this fine vintage shows less acidity than usual, making it unusually supple.

Drink it with salumeria (i.e., sausages, prosciutto, salame), pasta e fagioli and all sorts of pasta. It’s a natural with chicken and pork, too.

About $15. Available at Du Vin in West Hollywood, Wine Exchange in Orange and Wine Club in Santa Ana. If you can’t find this wine, ask your retailer to call the distributor, Henry Wine Group, (800) 699-9429.