OLIVES

I am sitting in my office on this hot, still, Los Angeles afternoon, listening to the mockingbirds and thinking about the fact that in one week I’ll be in Provence. In many ways, this dry summer day is much like a day in the Luberon, the part of Provence that I know best. The sky is cloudless, bees are buzzing around the lavender that is blooming in my garden and in others up and down my street. And I have tapenade in my refrigerator.

Tapenade is made from ingredients that epitomize the flavors of Provence: capers, anchovies, garlic and olives. I’ve noticed that over the years chefs have become rather cavalier about naming just about anything that can be blended up, be it olives, sun-dried tomatoes or even figs, as tapenade. But a real tapenade must have those four elements.

Interestingly, the word does not refer to the olives that are its most prominent ingredient; it comes from the Provencal word for caper, tapeno (or tapero ). “These, preserved in vinegar, are crushed in a mortar, along with bay laurel, thyme, garlic, anchovies and black olives, then bound with olive oil and spiced with a little bit of rum,” says my French cookbook, “ L’Histoire et Recettes de la Provence et du Comte de Nice “ (“History and Recipes of Provence and the Region of Nice”) in its discussion of tapenade.

Other cooks of the region favor Cognac, and make it optional (as do I), and the seasonings vary. Lulu Peyraud, of Domaine Tempier in Bandol, uses only summer savory and does not add the mustard, thyme, rosemary or lemon juice that my recipe calls for. The goal is to achieve a balance of pungent and herbal flavors and to enhance the flavor of the olive.

The olives that you begin with will determine the nature of your tapenade. My favorite is the fleshy black Nyons olive from Haute Provence. It’s a brined olive, but not too acidic or metallic-tasting. These are almost impossible to get, so in California I usually make my tapenade with imported Greek olives. But I don’t use Kalamatas, because I usually find their flavor too briny, and with some exceptions, the flesh isn’t as tender as the French ripe olives I’m used to.

The closest in texture to a Nyons olive is the Greek Amphisa olive, which I have found in jars in supermarkets, and also in cans labeled “Greek Black Olives” from Trader Joe’s. These are much pinker than the dark black olives from France, so the color of the tapenade is not as appealing; but the flavor is good. You can also use a dark salt-cured olive, but the flavor will be less nuanced. The most important thing about the black olives you use is that they be imported, and not ripe California olives.

Although virtually all of my French cookbooks say that tapenade is made with black olives (and they don’t specify the type), I have tasted delicious green olive tapenades in markets all over Provence. I was a bit skeptical about green olive tapenade until I noticed a long line, one drizzly Saturday morning at the Apt market, in front of a sign that read “Les Delices du Luberon .” This is a group of artisans that makes several types of tapenade, as well as anchoiade , an anchovy paste, and sells them at markets throughout the region. They make a traditional black olive tapenade, and a black olive tapenade with tuna (which is also traditional), a green olive tapenade, a green olive tapenade with almonds and a green olive tapenade with tuna and basil.

“Larousse Gastronomique” defines tapenade as a Provencal condiment, which I find a very fitting description. Spread on a garlic crouton, tapenade makes the perfect appetizer, with just about any wine (given a choice, though, I’d opt for a chilled rose or something sparkling). But it can go beyond that, and in many directions. A standard item on my Provencal hors d’oeuvre plate is vegetables and hard-boiled eggs stuffed with tapenade. You blend up the hard-boiled egg yolks with the tapenade, and it’s scrumptious. Black olive and the tuna tapenades are best for this.

I also use it as an accompaniment for fish; grill, bake, steam or poach a white-fleshed fish like sea-bass and serve a generous spoonful of tapenade alongside. Or spread some on filets, wrap them in foil or parchment packages and bake.

Vegetarians should not deprive themselves of tapenade. I recently tested my classic recipe without the anchovies, to see whether it would be good enough to go into my next vegetarian cookbook. It was, definitely, terrific. It lacked the dimension that the anchovies give it, but vegetarians and those who don’t care for anchovies will appreciate this absence.

Tapenade has one more thing going for it: It keeps for weeks in the refrigerator. Just about everything that goes into tapenade is a cured food, so it’s no wonder that it keeps so well. Just keep a little bit of olive oil covering the top, and you’ll always be able to offer guests something wonderful.

Tapenade-Stuffed Vegetables

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 40 minutes

You can choose other vegetables if you wish for this dish.

*

6 hard-boiled eggs

1 recipe Classic Tapenade

6 small tomatoes, cut in half

Salt

3 small zucchini, cut in half lengthwise, then into 2-inch lengths

2 red or yellow bell peppers, seeded and cut in wide strips or 1-inch pieces

Chopped parsley, for garnish

Cut the eggs in half lengthwise. Carefully remove the yolks and transfer the whites to a plate. In a food processor or mortar and pestle, blend some or all of the hard-boiled yolks (3 to 6) thoroughly with the tapenade. Fill the whites with this mixture. If you wish, cut the halved eggs into wedges. Arrange on a platter.

Scoop the seeds out of the tomatoes; turn them upside down on a rack to drain, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile bring a large pot of water to a boil, add a teaspoon of salt and the zucchini. Blanch 1 minute, drain and refresh with cold water. Scoop out the seeds.

Fill the tomato halves, zucchini shells and peppers with the tapenade mixture. Arrange on the platter with the eggs. Garnish with the parsley and serve.

*

6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings: 121 calories; 645 mg sodium; 150 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 2.16 grams fiber.

Classic Tapenade

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes plus 2 hours chilling

This is the one I’ve been making for years. I’ve given a range for the anchovies. If you prefer, substitute more lemon juice for the Cognac. Serve with croutons or spread on halved cherry tomatoes or other baby vegetables. If you pit the olives rather than buy them pitted, add about 20 minutes to the preparation time.

*

2 large cloves garlic

1/2 pound imported black olives, pitted (about 1 1/2 cups)

1 1/2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

4 to 6 anchovy filets, soaked, if salt-packed, about 5 minutes in water and drained

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary or 1/2 teaspoon crumbled dried

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons olive oil or more as desired

Freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon Cognac, optional

Chopped fresh herbs or sprigs, for garnish

Turn on a food processor and drop in the garlic. When it is chopped, turn off the machine and scrape down the sides. Add the olives, capers, anchovies, thyme, rosemary and mustard. Blend together until fairly smooth. Add the lemon juice, olive oil, a generous grinding of pepper and the Cognac and continue to blend until you have a smooth paste.

Scrape the tapenade into a serving bowl and garnish with the herbs. Refrigerate 2 hours until ready to serve.

*

1 cup; 10 to 12 servings. Each of 12 servings: 33 calories; 374 mg sodium; 4 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.58 gram fiber.

Tuna Tapenade

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 25 minutes plus 2 hours chilling

This makes a great sandwich. Add 20 minutes to the preparation time if you’ll be pitting the olives.

*

2 large cloves garlic

1/2 pound imported black olives, pitted (about 1 1/2 cups)

1 1/2 tablespoons capers, drained and rinsed

4 anchovy filets, soaked, if salt-packed, about 5 minutes in water and drained

1 (6-ounce) can water-packed or oil-packed tuna, drained

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary or 1/2 teaspoon crumbled dried

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/4 cup olive oil

Freshly ground pepper

Chopped fresh herbs or sprigs, for garnish

Turn on a food processor and drop in the garlic. When it is chopped, turn off the machine and scrape down the sides. Add the olives, capers, anchovies, tuna, thyme, rosemary and mustard. Blend together until fairly smooth. Add the lemon juice, olive oil and a generous grinding of pepper and continue to blend until you have a smooth paste. Scrape into an attractive serving bowl and garnish with herbs. Refrigerate 2 hours until ready to serve.

*

8 to 10 servings. Each of 10 servings: 60 calories; 507 mg sodium; 10 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.70 gram fiber.

Whole Fish With Tapenade

Active Work Time: 35 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

*

1 large whole fish, about 2 1/2 pounds, preferably a white-fleshed fish like sea bass, red snapper, porgy (daurade) or striped bass

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon Classic Tapenade, divided

2 or 3 sprigs rosemary

Juice of 1/2 lemon

2 tablespoons dry white or rose wine

Lemon wedges, for garnish

Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Oil a baking dish large enough to accommodate the fish.

Rinse the fish with cold water and pat dry. Sprinkle it on both sides with salt and pepper, then rub with the olive oil. Measure the fish at the thickest point to determine how long you will bake it. Place a heaped tablespoon of tapenade and the rosemary sprigs in the stomach cavity of the fish. Place the fish in the baking dish. Pour the lemon juice over the fish, add the wine to the baking dish and cover tightly with foil that has been lightly oiled on the underside.

Bake the fish for 5 minutes per 1/2 inch of thickness. Remove it from the oven, and test for doneness. It is done if it is opaque and pulls apart easily with a fork at the thickest point.

Serve the fish with the remaining tapenade on the side.

*

4 servings. Each serving: 82 calories; 668 mg sodium; 9 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.59 gram fiber.

Green Olive and Almond Tapenade

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes plus 2 hours chilling

The almonds contribute a marvelous texture to this tapenade, which has a fresh, herbal flavor. I use French picholine olives, but you could also use other imported green olives, as long as they aren’t flavored or stuffed. Add 20 minutes to the preparation time if you’ll be pitting the olives.

*

2 large cloves garlic

1/2 pound imported green olives, such as picholines, pitted (about 2 cups)

1 1/2 tablespoons capers, drained and rinsed

2 anchovy filets, soaked, if salt-cured, about 5 minutes in water and drained

1/2 cup blanched almonds

1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary or 1/2 teaspoon crumbled dried

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/3 cup olive oil

Freshly ground pepper

Chopped fresh herbs or sprigs, for garnish

Turn on a food processor and drop in the garlic. When it is chopped, turn off the machine and scrape down the sides. Add the olives, capers, anchovies, almonds, rosemary and mustard. Blend together until fairly smooth. Add the lemon juice, olive oil and a generous grinding of pepper and continue to blend until you have a smooth paste. Scrape into an attractive serving bowl and garnish with herbs. Refrigerate 2 hours until ready to serve.

*

10 to 12 servings. Each of 12 servings: 70 calories; 546 mg sodium; 4 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 1.69 grams fiber.