The Smashing Eggplants

Exchanging recipes with neighbors is friendly and fun. But as a newlywed and a novice at the stove, I quickly found out that it can also be dangerous. When I lived in Bat Yam in metropolitan Tel Aviv, my next-door neighbor’s recipe for a tasty spread led to an eggplant explosion.

It all started when my Middle Eastern mother-in-law cited the local proverb that a woman must know 101 ways to prepare eggplant in order to be fit for marriage. Determined to prove myself worthy of her son, I started with the dips I liked, the three favorites in Israel: eggplant with tahineh , eggplant with mayonnaise and eggplant with oil and lemon. My neighbor made them well, and when I asked how she cooked the eggplant, she said, “Nothing could be simpler. Just place a whole eggplant in a very hot oven. You can set it directly on the oven rack--you don’t even need a pan.”

I put a large, beautiful eggplant in my oven and went to the living room to study for a college exam. After 10 minutes, I heard a loud bang. At first I thought there had been a blast in the neighborhood. Then I realized the explosion had come from my own kitchen.

I hesitantly opened the oven and found, to my shock, it was empty. On closer inspection, I noticed bits of eggplant stuck to the oven’s roof and walls. My eggplant had burst into smithereens.

After talking with another friend, I realized my mistake: Before you roast the eggplant, you have to pierce it a few times with a fork. Otherwise, the steam builds up inside the eggplant as it bakes and can cause it to blow up.

Since then, I never forget this step (and I’m always sure to bake my eggplants in a pan as well ... just in case).

Soon these Israeli eggplant recipes--which can be considered spreads, salads or dips--became standards in my kitchen. Their smooth texture is satisfying but not starchy or heavy.

Then I started exploring. An Egyptian friend mentioned that her family loves eggplant with plenty of sauteed garlic and coriander. I understood why as soon as I prepared it. For those days when I want a lighter dip, I adopted a delicate rendition popular in Turkey, in which eggplant is matched with yogurt, a little olive oil and a hint of garlic.

Other cooks told me they combine tender roasted eggplant with cooked and even raw vegetables. When I discovered a wonderful orange-hued blend of eggplant with grilled sweet and hot red peppers, it became a staple on my late summer menus.

I’ve also enjoyed a tangy reddish eggplant spread flavored with cooked tomatoes, tomato paste and vinegar. After I sampled roasted eggplant mixed with finely diced raw tomatoes, cucumbers and onions at a kebab restaurant, I started making that at home and added sweet peppers as well.

I love Provencal eggplant with olives and capers too, and the slightly more elaborate specialty of India called eggplant bharta . To prepare this aromatic dish, you take the roasted eggplant one step further by cooking it with gingerroot, garlic and chiles as well as savory spices.

Roasted eggplant is good with an Asian accent of soy sauce, sesame oil, rice vinegar and chile paste, and even with a sort of “Mexico meets Mideast” salsa-style seasoning--tomatillos, charred chiles, onions and plenty of cilantro.

As appetizers, these eggplant dishes are great served with fresh or toasted pita or crusty bread or presented as a salad on a bed of greens. Occasionally I spread them on slices of cucumber or tomato as a light hors d’oeuvre. They make superb sandwich fillings with all sorts of smoked meats, cheeses or grilled vegetables. When served with meat or vegetarian entrees, they play a double role as a relish and vegetable accompaniment.

When I moved to California, I found all sorts of eggplant varieties besides the familiar, oval globe type. At farmers markets I sometimes see white ones that look just like eggs. My produce store carries tiny purple Indian eggplants that resemble miniatures of the globe type, as well as small, ball-shaped, pale-green Thai eggplants. They are interesting but too small for these recipes. The slim, zucchini-sized Asian varieties--lavender-skinned Chinese and purple-skinned Japanese eggplants--do work very well.

I like these varieties so much that I planted some. They give me plenty of perfect fruit as well as an unexpected pleasure--beautiful leaves and flowers.

Which variety to use for these salads is a matter of preference. People from the Mideast tend to be partial to the common, fairly large eggplants for their more dominant flavor. Smaller Asian eggplants cook faster, but there are more of them to peel, so there is a trade-off in time. I use whichever I have on hand.

In addition to roasting, there is another technique for cooking whole eggplants--grilling, which is actually more popular in the Mideast, because the eggplants acquire a smoky flavor that way. Whenever I’m planning to grill, even for a quick supper, I try to have some eggplant on hand to put on the barbecue afterward so they are ready for future meals.

Some of my friends in Israel use a variation of this method. They cook whole eggplants directly on the flame of their gas burners. But I don’t like cleaning the stovetop after the eggplant juices have dripped all over it. One eggplant mess was enough for me.

Eggplant With Tahineh and Toasted Pine Nuts

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour * Vegetarian

This rich, sesame-flavored, cream-colored dip is the most popular eggplant preparation in the Middle East. Its unique taste comes from tahineh, or sesame butter, accented with lemon juice and garlic. Use pure tahineh paste, not prepared tahineh sauce; the ingredient label on the jar should list only sesame. Usually there is oil on top; stir until blended before measuring it. If you’re serving the dip’s time-honored partner, pita bread, be sure to buy fresh, good-quality loaves from a Mideast market or bakery, not the thin, flimsy ones you find in some supermarkets. At Mideast grocery stores you’ll also find red Aleppo pepper, which adds a gentle heat, more than paprika but much less than cayenne. For a festive presentation, I top the spread with pine nuts.

2 eggplants (about 2 1/2 pounds total)

1/4 cup pine nuts

3 large cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup tahineh (sesame paste), stirred until blended

6 to 7 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons water

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Aleppo pepper (Middle Eastern red pepper), paprika or cayenne, for garnish

Extra-virgin olive oil, for sprinkling

2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley, for garnish

Heat the grill or broiler.

Grill or broil the eggplants, turning them often, until their skin blisters and begins to blacken, then peel them.

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Toast the pine nuts on a baking sheet until light brown, 3 minutes, or toast them in a dry skillet over medium-low heat, tossing them often, for 2 to 3 minutes. Watch so they don’t burn. Immediately transfer them to a plate.

Chop the eggplant with a knife to a slightly chunky puree. Transfer to a bowl. Add the garlic and mix well.

Spoon the tahineh into a bowl. Gradually stir in 6 tablespoons of lemon juice and the water. Add to the eggplant and mix well. Season generously with salt, add pepper to taste and more lemon juice if you like.

At serving time, spread the eggplant in a thick layer on a platter or plate. Sprinkle with Aleppo pepper, drizzle the center lightly with olive oil, then sprinkle with pine nuts. Sprinkle the edges with parsley and serve.

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6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings: 150 calories; 52 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 4.86 grams fiber.

Indian Eggplant Bharta

Active Work Time: 35 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour * Vegetarian

After your eggplant is cooked, this savory side dish accented with fresh ginger, garlic and spices is simple to make. It has long been one of the dishes I love most, and I enjoy discovering new versions. Rakhi Singh, a woman from Patna in northeast India whom I met recently while eggplant shopping, told me her variations on her region’s beloved dish. Tiny green Thai bird chiles are her preference for lending heat to her bharta; when she can’t get them, she opts for jalapenos or serranos. Unlike most cooks in India, she uses olive oil instead of vegetable oil or ghee (clarified butter) for sauteing her onions. More surprising was her shortcut--she microwaves cubed eggplant instead of grilling it whole. You can serve it hot with rice or meat dishes, as they do in Indian restaurants. In our family, we also love it cold as an appetizer with crusty bread, pita or warm naan.

2 eggplants (2 to 3 pounds total)

2 to 3 tablespoons oil

1 onion, chopped

2 to 4 jalapenos or other hot chiles, seeded if you want less heat, minced

2 teaspoons minced ginger root

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can tomatoes, drained and chopped

Salt

Cayenne pepper, optional

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

Roast, broil or grill the eggplants, then peel them. Chop the eggplant pulp fine with a knife or in a food processor.

Heat the oil in a large skillet. Add the onion and cook over medium heat until it begins to brown, 7 minutes. Add the jalapenos, ginger and garlic and cook for 30 seconds, stirring. Stir in the coriander, cumin and turmeric, followed by the tomatoes.

Bring to a simmer and cook over medium heat until thickened, 7 minutes.

Add the eggplant, salt and cayenne pepper to taste and cook, stirring often, until the mixture is thick, 5 to 10 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve the eggplant hot, cold or at room temperature, spooned into a shallow bowl and sprinkled with cilantro.

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4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 112 calories; 207 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 4.91 grams fiber.

Eggplant Dip With Mayonnaise and Garlic

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 50 minutes plus 30 minutes chilling * Vegetarian

This creamy dip was the first eggplant preparation I became fond of. Immigrants from Russia brought this spread to Israel, and it is not common in other Mideast countries. The hard-boiled eggs are my addition; because egg salad was my childhood favorite, they turn this dip into true comfort food for me. If you like, serve the dip garnished with parsley sprigs and black olives. During my Tel-Aviv days my favorite sandwich was made of a hollowed-out, whole-wheat roll filled with this spread and topped with slices of smoked turkey or kashkaval, a slightly tangy sheep’s milk cheese. You can buy kashkaval at Eastern European and Mideast markets.

2 eggplants (2 to 3 pounds total)

1 or 2 large cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon minced onion, preferably mild, optional

1/3 to 1/2 cup mayonnaise

2 to 4 teaspoons strained fresh lemon juice

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 or 2 hard-boiled eggs, optional, coarsely grated

Heat the grill or broiler. Grill or broil the eggplants, turning them often, until their skin blisters and begins to blacken, then peel them.

Chop the eggplant pulp fine with a knife or in a food processor. Transfer the eggplant to a bowl. Add the garlic and onion and mix well. Stir in the mayonnaise, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste; the mixture should be generously seasoned. Lightly stir in the eggs and taste again. Refrigerate in a covered container at least 30 minutes to blend flavors.

Serve cold in a shallow bowl or spread in a thick layer on a plate.

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6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings: 71 calories; 109 mg sodium; 3 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 2.87 grams fiber.

Roasted Pepper and Eggplant Spread

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour * Vegetarian

Grill eggplants and peppers together, puree the mixture and you get a delicious Balkan spread called ajvar. I learned to prepare it in Israel, where it’s a favorite among people of Bulgarian origin. Traditionally the spread is made either mild or hot, depending on the kinds of peppers the cook uses. I always include plenty of red bell peppers for the delightful sweet taste and reddish hue they give the spread.

2 eggplants (about 3 pounds total)

3 red bell peppers

2 or 3 red or green jalapenos, optional

2 cloves garlic, minced

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Hot paprika or cayenne pepper

2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar or citrus vinegar

Heat the grill or broiler.

Grill or broil the eggplants, bell peppers and jalapenos, turning them often, until their skins blister all over and begin to blacken. (You may have to do this in batches.) The eggplant and peppers should take 10 to 15 minutes, the jalapenos, 5 minutes. Transfer them to a bowl and cover tightly, or put them in a plastic bag and seal it. Let them stand about 10 minutes.

Peel the eggplant, bell peppers and jalapenos using a paring knife. Remove the caps, seeds and ribs. Be careful; there may be hot liquid inside them. Drain them well. Do not rinse.

Chop the eggplant and peppers very fine with a knife, or puree them in a food processor. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and add the garlic and the salt, pepper and hot paprika to taste. Mix well. Stir in the oil and vinegar. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve at room temperature or cold.

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6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings: 82 calories; 42 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 4.44 grams fiber.

Egyptian Eggplant With Coriander

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 45 minutes * Vegetarian

A brief saute with ground coriander seeds, cumin and a generous dose of garlic gives grilled eggplant a delectable taste. I like to finish the dish with a popular herb in the Land of the Nile--cilantro. When heated briefly, this eggplant is a wonderful accompaniment for roasted or grilled lamb, chicken or turkey. Served cold or at room temperature, this versatile puree makes a tasty appetizer with pita bread. As a spread for sandwiches, it has a more vibrant flavor than butter or mayonnaise, and it’s lower in fat and calories.

2 eggplants (2 to 3 pounds total)

1/4 cup olive oil, preferably extra-virgin

7 or 8 large cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander

3/4 teaspoon ground cumin

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro

Cilantro sprigs, for garnish

For the favorite Mideast taste, grill the eggplants; otherwise, broil or roast them, then peel them. Chop the eggplant pulp fine with a knife.

Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet. Add the garlic and cook over low heat, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the ground coriander and cumin and let the spices toast for a few seconds over low heat. Immediately add the eggplant and mix well. Cook over low heat for 5 minutes to thicken and blend flavors. Season generously with salt and pepper. Stir in the chopped cilantro. Serve hot or cold, garnished with cilantro sprigs.

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4 side-dish servings. Each serving: 193 calories; 83 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 5.91 grams fiber.

Provencal Eggplant Salad With Olives and Capers

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 50 minutes * Vegetarian

Cooks in southern France flavor eggplant with a Provencal caper-olive paste called tapenade, which complements eggplant well because of its salty taste. I dice the olives instead of pureeing them to a paste and leave the eggplant chunky for a better texture and color. If you want to add anchovies, a classic tapenade component, use three or four olive-oil-packed filets and chop them fine. Spoon this salad in the center of a bed of romaine lettuce leaves and garnish it with ripe tomato wedges or cherry tomatoes; or serve it in a bowl as a relish and top it with parsley sprigs and olives. Crusty French bread is the perfect partner. Recently my husband came up with a new use that might raise a few eyebrows among Riviera residents--he spreads this Provencal eggplant on grilled soy burgers and sprinkles it with Mexican hot sauce.

2 eggplants (about 3 pounds total)

2 large cloves garlic, finely minced

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons strained lemon juice

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or 3/4 teaspoon dried

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup black olives, pitted, quartered or cut in large dice

1/2 cup green olives, pitted, quartered or cut in large dice

1 tablespoon capers, drained, chopped if large, left whole if small

3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

Heat the grill or broiler.

Roast the eggplants, turning them often, until their skin blisters and begins to blacken, then peel and drain them.

Chop the eggplant with a knife, leaving it a bit chunky. Transfer to a bowl. Add the garlic and mix well. Stir in the olive oil, lemon juice, thyme, salt and pepper to taste, the black and green olives, capers and parsley. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve in a shallow bowl or on a plate.

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6 servings. Each serving: 151 calories; 316 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 5.66 grams fiber.

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Levy is the author of “1,000 Jewish Recipes” (Hungry Minds, 2000) and of “Faye Levy’s International Vegetable Cookbook” (Warner, 1993), a James Beard Award winner.