A Cup of Soup, Anyone?

Soup makes for a gentle transition to dinner, whether it be a sit-down meal or a casual buffet. Served in warm demitasse cups, it won’t try your guests’ appetites too much.

These rich vegetable soups can be made well ahead of time and even frozen. The trick is adding just enough cream to give them a smooth finish. You’ll find that a little cream goes a long way.

For the best results, cook the vegetables until they’re very soft and puree in a blender, in two batches if necessary. Let them cool off before pureeing; the splatters can be very hot.

Roasted Delicata Squash Soup

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 10 minutes

Any sweet winter squash can be used.

4 delicata squashes

Oil

2 tablespoons butter

1 onion, chopped

2 (14 1/2-ounce) cans vegetable broth

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

3/4 teaspoon coarse salt

Freshly ground pepper

8 large fresh sage leaves, plus small ones for garnish

1/4 cup whipping cream

Sugar, optional

* Carefully split squash lengthwise; scrape out seeds. Rub oil over cut surface. Roast at 400 degrees on lower rack, cut side up, until soft, about 30 to 40 minutes. When cool enough to handle, scoop out squash. You should have about 2 cups.

* Heat butter in 3-quart pot over medium-high heat. When hot, add onion. Cook, stirring often, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add roasted squash, broth, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, 25 minutes. Let cool at room temperature.

* Strain vegetables from liquid, reserving both. Puree vegetables in blender with 8 large sage leaves. Add some cooking liquid and puree until mixture is very smooth, about 1 to 2 minutes.

* Return to pot. Stir in cream. (Can be made ahead up to this point and refrigerated 2 days or frozen up to 1 month. To serve, gently reheat until hot; do not boil. Add water if soup is too thick.) Taste; adjust seasoning and add sugar, if desired. Serve hot garnished with small sage leaves.

6 to 8 appetizer servings. Each of 8 servings: 103 calories; 754 mg sodium; 18 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.92 gram fiber.

Mushroom Bisque With Fresh Chives

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 50 minutes

1/4 cup dried shiitake mushrooms

1 cup hot water

3 tablespoons butter

2 onions, chopped

1 pound white mushrooms, coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon minced garlic

2 (14 1/2-ounce) cans vegetable broth

1/4 cup minced chives, plus snipped chives for garnish

1/4 cup whipping cream

* Soak dried mushrooms in hot water 20 minutes, then drain liquid through paper towels (to catch any grit) and reserve. Set liquid and mushrooms aside.

* Heat butter in 3-quart pot over medium-high heat. When hot, add onions. Cook, stirring often, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add white and shiitake mushrooms and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until heated through, about 5 minutes. Add reserved liquid and 1 1/2 cans broth. Bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, 30 minutes. Let cool at room temperature.

* Strain vegetables from liquid, reserving both. Puree vegetables in blender with 1/4 cup chives. Add some liquid and puree until mixture is very smooth, about 1 to 2 minutes.

* Return to pot. Stir in cream, and if soup is too thick, add remaining broth (and water if needed). (Can be made ahead up to this point and refrigerated 2 days or frozen up to 1 month. To serve, gently reheat until hot; do not boil. Add water if soup is too thick.) Taste; adjust seasoning. Serve hot, garnished with snipped chives.

6 to 8 appetizer servings. Each of 8 servings: 110 calories; 551 mg sodium; 22 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 1.69 grams fiber.

Winter White Fennel Bisque

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

1 tablespoon butter

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 large bulbs fennel, stems trimmed (reserve 1/3 cup feathery greens for garnish)

3 small parsnips, peeled

2 (14 1/2-ounce) cans vegetable broth

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons whipping cream

* Heat butter in 3-quart pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add onion and cook, stirring until soft, about 6 minutes.

* Add fennel and parsnips to pan along with 1 1/4 cans broth, salt and dash pepper. Bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, until all vegetables are very soft, about 25 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.

* Strain vegetables from liquid, reserving both. Puree vegetables in blender with 1/4 cup reserved greens. Add some liquid and puree until mixture is very smooth, about 1 to 2 minutes.

* Return to pot. Stir in cream. (Can be made ahead up to this point and refrigerated 2 days or frozen up to 1 month. To serve, gently reheat until hot; do not boil. Add more broth or water if soup is too thick.) Taste; adjust seasoning. Serve hot garnished with reserved greens.

6 appetizer servings: 103 calories; 905 mg sodium; 12 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 2.46 gram fiber.

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Demitasse cups from Sur la Table stores.