Who’s afraid of the BIG, BAD GREENS

I stood a little way back from the cooking greens section in my grocery store last Saturday and watched what people chose and what they ignored. Spinach was the No. 1 choice, even though it was especially sandy from the rains. Cabbage and chard were not unpopular either. And a few Italophiles went for pricey broccoli rabe.

But what was most interesting to me were the wallflowers, the greens no one chose: bouncy piles of vibrant mustard greens, prickly-looking bunches of Redbor kale and some big ragged leaves that I thought were turnip greens but discovered, when I took a bite, to be overgrown arugula.

There were beautiful, round-leafed bunches of gray-green collards. Unlike the chard, whose leaves were a bit tattered and tired-looking, these were perfect. But not a single shopper even paused in front of them, let alone chose them for their basket.

As far as I could tell, the best of the lot were being overlooked. These, apparently, are the scary greens, the ones shoppers think are going to be too strong, too aggressive and, most likely, bitter.

But I know otherwise. Kale is mild. Collards are mild. And although they start out hot and feisty, by the time you’ve cooked mustard greens until they’re tender, they’re pretty tame as well. Overgrown arugula, even with all its heat and spice, has a perfect role to play in a pasta that won’t obscure its nutty flavor.

Personally, I hunger for these big, bold greens, especially this time of year, when winter’s cold weather seems to sweeten them. Add a few wild dandelions or maybe some nettles, and I feel great. I also feel a bit like a rabbit nibbling in a spring field of weeds, but having observed such behavior in rabbits, I have concluded that it’s what keeps them healthy and hopping. I hope it will do the same for me.

One thing you should know about these greens is that you can mix them. I assure you they will be sweet-tempered by the time they’re cooked, but if you’re nervous, cut your mustard greens with a bunch of chard or spinach. They can also be used interchangeably: If the mustards don’t look particularly good one day, substitute the arugula or the dandelions or kale. Some farmers sell bags of mixed mustard, kale and collard greens for quickly sauteing (they’ve got to be small and tender to be cooked this way). But mature leaves of various greens can also be used together in a soup or saute, they just need to be cooked longer. Another thing to know is that all greens, from the sweetest to the most aggressive, are great with potatoes, beans, rice and other farinaceous foods, such as pasta. They enjoy a symbiotic relationship. The bland starchy foods provide a moderating influence on the greens, and the greens return the favor by perking up what might be dull.

So I filled my basket with mustard, arugula, collards and kale and stood in line. The check-out person raised her eyebrows. She didn’t ask what I was going to do with all these greens, but she did have to ask the name of each one.

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Red Kale With Potatoes and Olives

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour * Vegetarian

All greens are good with potatoes, but try the kale in this recipe. You can substitute Nicoise or black olives, if you’d like.

2 large boiling potatoes such as Yellow Finn or Yukon Gold, about 1 pound

Salt

1 to 2 bunches kale

3 to 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving

1 large clove garlic, thinly sliced

1/2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

Handful of pitted Gaeta or other black, brine-cured olives, coarsely chopped

2 plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped

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Place the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover them with cold water. Add salt to taste and bring to a simmer. Cook the potatoes until they’re tender, about 25 minutes. Drain, let them cool slightly, then peel and coarsely chop them.

Cut the kale leaves off of their tough stems and chop them coarsely. Bring water to a simmer in a 12-to 14-inch skillet and add a dash of salt. Add the kale and simmer until tender, 7 to 10 minutes, then drain. (If you’re using 2 bunches of kale, you’ll need 2 large skillets.)

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Heat the oil with the garlic and pepper flakes in a large skillet over medium heat. When you can smell the garlic, add the olives, kale, potatoes and tomatoes. Cook, breaking up the potatoes with a fork and mashing them into the greens to make a kind of rough hash. Taste for salt and serve with olive oil drizzled over the top.

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4 servings. Each serving: 247 calories; 230 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 3.70 grams fiber.

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Collard Greens With Roasted Peanuts and Crushed Red Peppers

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 35 minutes * Vegetarian

3 bunches collard greens or a mixture of greens

Salt

3 tablespoons peanut oil

1/3 cup raw peanuts

3 cloves garlic, chopped

1/2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

Hot pepper-vinegar sauce, for serving

Remove and discard the stems from the greens and chop the leaves coarsely.

Bring 1 gallon of water to a boil in a large saucepan and add salt to taste. Add the greens and use a pair of tongs or wooden spoon to poke them under the water. After the water returns to a boil, cook until the greens are tender, 10 to 12 minutes. When done, drain the greens and set them aside.

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Heat the oil over medium heat in a skillet that’s large enough to accommodate the cooked greens. Add the peanuts and fry them until they’re lightly colored, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove them with a slotted spoon to a paper towel to drain. They will continue to darken as they cool.

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Return the pan with the oil to the heat and add the garlic. Cook for about a minute, without letting it brown, then add the red pepper flakes and the cooked greens. Toss them in the oil and cook until they’re heated through, turning them occasionally. While they’re heating, chop the peanuts and then add them to the greens. Toss everything together and taste for salt. Serve with hot pepper sauce on the side.

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4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 142 calories; 74 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 4.83 grams fiber.

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Pot Herb Soup (Mustard Greens, Spinach, Arugula)

Active Work Time: 40 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 40 minutes

Simmer some potato gnocchi in the soup just before serving. The tender mouthfuls of potato are so nice with the greens. Or serve this with garlic-rubbed croutons floating in the soup.

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1 onion, finely diced

2 tablespoons butter or olive oil

1 leek, white part only, chopped

1 stalk celery, diced

1 large carrot, chopped into small pieces

1 large baking potato, peeled and chopped

1/3 cup chopped parsley and celery leaves, mixed

2 bay leaves

7 cups chicken broth, divided

4 cups mustard greens, stems removed, chopped

Salt

3 cups spinach leaves, stemmed and finely chopped

2 cups arugula leaves, stemmed and chopped

Freshly ground pepper

In a large, wide soup pot, cook the onion in the oil over high heat for about a minute. Add the leek, celery, carrot, potato, parsley mixture and bay leaves. Turn the heat to medium and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. Add 1 cup of the broth and the mustard greens, toss with 2 teaspoons of salt and cook, covered, until the greens have wilted down, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Add the rest of the stock, bring to a boil, then simmer, covered, until the mustard is tender and mild, 25 to 35 minutes.

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Add the spinach and arugula and cook until tender and bright green, about 3 to 5 minutes. Taste for salt and season with pepper.

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6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings: 148 calories; 1,489 mg sodium; 10 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 2.75 grams fiber.

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Mustard Greens Slowly Cooked With Rice,

Ginger and Cilantro

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 30 minutes * Vegetarian

By the time the greens have cooked for 45 minutes, their sting is gone; they’re silky and tender. If you prefer, you can use one bunch of mustard greens and one bunch of chard.

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2 bunches mustard greens, coarse stems removed

3 tablespoons oil

1 onion, diced

1/4 cup rice

2 tablespoons finely chopped ginger root

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon paprika

1 cup chopped cilantro stems and leaves

1 teaspoon salt

Yogurt, preferably whole-milk, for serving

Stem the mustard greens, wash well and chop but don’t dry them.

Heat the oil in a wide, heavy pot. Add the onion, rice, ginger, cumin and paprika and stir to coat with the oil. Cook for 2 minutes over medium heat, then add the cilantro and the greens. Sprinkle with salt, cover the pan and cook until the volume has reduced, 10 to 15 minutes. Give everything a stir, then reduce the heat to the lowest setting, replace the cover and cook slowly for 30 to 45 minutes. There should be ample moisture in the pot, but check once or twice to make sure that nothing is sticking on the bottom. If it seems dry, add a few tablespoons to 1/4 cup of water.

Start tasting after 30 minutes, and cook until the greens are tender. Serve warm with yogurt spooned over the top.

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4 servings. Each serving: 157 calories; 627 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 5.12 grams fiber.

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Greens With Crisped Bread Crumbs

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 35 minutes * Vegetarian

1/2 cup coarse fresh bread crumbs

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

2 bunches mustard, collards, kale or a mixture, trimmed and washed

Salt, pepper

Cook the bread crumbs in 1 tablespoon of oil in a skillet over medium heat until they’re crisp and golden, 4 to 6 minutes.

Boil or steam the greens until they’re tender, 12 to 15 minutes, then drain. Chop them coarsely, then toss them with the remaining oil and season with salt and pepper. Add the bread crumbs, toss once more and serve.

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4 servings. Each serving: 104 calories; 132 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 3.91 grams fiber.

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Whole-Wheat Spaghetti With Arugula, Walnuts and Sheep’s Milk Cheese

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 40 minutes * Vegetarian

1/2 cup walnuts

8 ounces whole-wheat spaghetti

Salt

1 large bunch mature arugula leaves or 4 cups baby arugula leaves

3 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra-virgin to finish

1 clove garlic, chopped

Dash dried red pepper flakes

1/3 cup coarsely grated and chopped sheep’s milk cheese, such as pecorino Romano

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the walnuts on a baking sheet and toast until lightly browned, 7 to 9 minutes. Chop the nuts and set them aside.

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Cook the spaghetti in plenty of rapidly boiling salted water until al dente, about 7 to 8 minutes.

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While the spaghetti is cooking, pluck the leafy parts off the arugula from the stems. (When arugula is very large, the stems become coarse and stringy.) Chop coarsely and wash. Do not dry.

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Warm the oil in a large skillet, with the garlic and the red pepper flakes. Cook over medium heat until the garlic turns light gold, then add the arugula with the water clinging to its leaves. Season with a few pinches of salt and cook until wilted and tender, about 3 minutes.

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When the pasta is done, scoop it out and add it directly to the pan with a little of the cooking liquid. Add the walnuts and cheese and toss well. Serve with extra-virgin olive oil drizzled over the top.

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2 servings. Each serving: 604 calories; 489 mg sodium; 13 mg cholesterol; 46 grams fat; 8 grams saturated fat; 36 grams carbohydrates; 20 grams protein; 8.35 grams fiber.

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Vietri casserole from Malibu Colony Co., Malibu. Napkin from Leonora Moss, Sierra Madre.