California Merlots: A Fresher Shade of Red

We Californians seem to like ripeness and power in our wines. We like our Chardonnays rich and unctuous. We like our Cabernets to be full-bodied and full of flavor. We have encouraged the wineries to make their Zinfandels bigger, deeper and bolder.

Only Merlot among the reds has been somewhat successful in resisting the rush to ripeness and power. There are, of course, plenty of high-end Merlots that do run to boldness and tannin--Duckhorn, Neyers, Pride Mountain, Del Dotto, Liparita and Matanzas Creek are anything but food-friendly quaffers--but there are still plenty that don’t.

There is a school of thought that considers Cabernet as California’s most cellar-worthy wine because it ages better than Merlot. And, because I happen to be a charter member of that school, I buy far fewer Merlots for aging than I do Cabernets. Merlot is a wine I want to drink young, when its succulent fruit is bursting from the glass and filling the palate.

Here is a cross-section of recently tasted Merlots that are full of character and do not require half a decade or more to reach their best. Each one is drinkable now, though they will all age comfortably for a few years.

$* 1999 Blackstone Vineyards, Napa Valley, $14. This fruity, polished Merlot has a direct, friendly style that avoids the big ripe bombast of so many wines. Instead, it delivers a juicy dose of succulent fruit and just enough oak for a rich seasoning. It firms a bit toward the finish without losing its fruitiness and is perfect for current drinkability.

* 1999 Canoe Ridge Vineyard, Columbia Valley, $22. This wine offers subdued though complex scents of cherries, olives and loam and flavors that live up to that promise. There is some dryness in the finish, but no one will fault its overall drinkability now or over the next few years.

$ Frei Brothers “Reserve,” North Coast, $12. This new Gallo-sponsored label debuted with very enjoyable Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Even if this wine is not quite up to those standards, it is nonetheless pleasing with its rich oak and medium-depth ripe cherry fruit. It is rounded and a bit plump in texture, but also a bit hot and tough. Still, it will complement all manner of beef or lamb dishes.

* 1998 Gundlach Bundschu Winery “Rhinefarm Vineyards,” Sonoma Valley, $23. This wine focuses on Merlot’s sweet cherry fruit, with a full measure of creamy oak. Somewhat round and supple on the palate, the wine is ever accessible and does a fine job of showing off Merlot’s inviting personality

* 1999 Markham Vineyards, Napa Valley, $18. The cherry-scented nose of this aromatic and focused wine is filled out by creamy oak and hint of dried flowers. Its slightly supple, rounded texture and deep flavors are inviting from start to finish while a moderate edge of tannin provides some needed backbone both for current drinking or for a few years of cellaring.

* 1999 Pezzi King Vineyards “Susie’s Reserve,” Sonoma County, $21. Nicely ripened cherry fruit leads to a fair bit of sweet creamy oak in the bright, very clean nose of this polished youngster. If it is fairly plump in the mouth, the wine is ripe without excess, and its open, fruity flavors are free of heat and tannic coarseness. It may find a bit more fullness with time, but it is perfectly drinkable now.

$** 1998 St. Clement Vineyards, Napa Valley, $23. This perfectly polished wine displays all the cherry fruit and plush texture for which Merlot is known. It is sweet and juicy in the nose with an assist from lots of very rich oak. The flavors are deep, succulent and long-lasting, and although a little tannic, it steers well clear of any toughness and can be enjoyed now or a few years hence.

1998 Trefethen Vineyards, Napa Valley, $22. Rich, loamy and accented with glints of milk chocolate, this rounded, medium-bodied Merlot is a nicely measured mix of cherry fruit and careful oak. It shows both good depth and a slightly soft-edged structure that invites early drinking. If accessible, it is far from simple, and has a bit of room for improvement over the next few years.

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*** A world-class wine, superb by any measure, the top 1% to 2% of all wines tasted.

** An exceptional wine, well worth the effort to find, 10% to 12% of wines tasted.

* An admirable wine, tasty, focused, attractive, about 25% of wines tasted.

No Rating: The best are quite pleasant and can be good buys when moderately priced.

$ Good value for the money.

x Below average quality, to be avoided.