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Wine of the Week

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Another stunning beauty from a Rioja estate that released its first wine in 1994. This reserva, from old (mostly Tempranillo) vines, is inky plum in color, with great concentration and a taste of earth, sweet dark berries and cedar, reminiscent of a great Bordeaux. Lush with bright fruit, it’s fresher than some traditional Riojas, and the tannins are beautifully integrated. It has the stuff to age and will surely improve with time, but it’s hard to resist drinking it now--preferably with a steak or leg of lamb.

About $46. Available at Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Wally’s in West Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606; Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; and Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463.

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