Beauty, drama (and a fine meal too)

AS it emerges from the kitchen, the white glistening oblong gives no hint as to what it is, but it is carried so gently and with such a sense of reverence you could imagine it had some religious significance.

It arrives at the table and the restaurant’s manager, his eyes aglow with intensity, bends over it and begins to break away what is in fact a salt crust, and gradually he reveals a whole intact fish, a branzino, that has been roasted in that protective white casing. He gently removes the skin and then begins to lift the flesh from the bone and places it on the plate. The very first taste reveals an unparalleled delicacy and sweetness.

It is all executed with such solemnity and apparent skill that you’d think the only people entitled to do this sort of thing had to be directly descended from Escoffier. But, no, it’s really just performance. The fact of the matter is that roasting and serving a whole fish in salt is as easy as pie. Easier, actually.

The majesty of a whole fish served at the table has always been obvious to restaurants, and they have made a show of it for eons. The fish can, of course, be deep fried, as is common in Chinese restaurants. But roasting is the more nearly foolproof method and -- many would argue -- simply more beautiful.

One of the local masters of the technique is Gino Angelini of Angelini Osteria. His salt-encased branzino sits right at the top of the list of entrees on his menu these days, attracting one diner after another.

The branzino is imported from Italy and France but striped bass or red snapper are fine replacements. Although there are several approaches to roasting fish successfully, the salt crust, which seals in the juices and flavor without actually imparting any saltiness, comes from a rustic Italian tradition and suits the highly regarded little restaurant near La Brea very well.

Aromatic herbs in the salt permeate the flesh without masking its flavor. Of course, there is always the danger of drying out the fish through overcooking. If you make it yourself you’ll have to check for doneness by breaking through the crust with the tip of a knife near the spine or thickest part of the fish. It should look very moist and opaque with no signs of translucency. When it’s done the safest thing to do is let it stand at room temperature for three or four minutes so the crust cools enough to be handled.

The salt is then cracked open with a mallet and discarded. And here’s a caution: Be sure to remove any salt that remains on the platter so that it does not come in contact with the flesh of the fish once the skin is removed. Then remove the head and skin of the fish.

The flesh is removed in two stages. First, almost as if you were filleting it, carefully lift the flesh off the bone and place it on a serving platter or individual plate. Now the center bone is revealed; discard it and any small bones adhering to it. And transfer the remaining fish to the plate.

One way to finish the dish, although you may think it’s gilding the lily since the fish is so flavorful to start with, is to drizzle an herbal vinaigrette over it. And a simple accompaniment to this rustic dish is steamed seasonal vegetables. Mashed potatoes might be the final touch.

Another aficionado of the whole roasted fish is Michael Cimarusti the chef at the Water Grill. Although Cimarusti hasn’t had it on the menu lately, you can call ahead and tell him that’s what you’re coming there to try. And what you’ll get is a model of this dish in a state of perfection. He likes to use striped bass, American red snapper or imported loup de mer.

He thoroughly cleans the fish under cold running water, especially the cavity (a necessary step, whichever technique you choose).

He pats it dry with great care so that it won’t steam before it roasts.

Then the fish is stuffed with lemons and herbs before being roasted at high heat, along with an array of vegetables that have already been partially cooked. Like Gino Angelini -- and just about every chef worth his weight in salt in this town -- he is only going to use seasonal vegetables, preferably just purchased at a farmers market. Garlic is also a frequent addition.

His fish will stay moist and delicate -- without a crust of any kind encasing it -- because it is roasted at such a high temperature that the skin itself is adequate protection.

When the fish is about to be peeled he rubs the skin with the roasted garlic, which helps prevent tearing, and then squeezes the roasted garlic over the vegetables to help bring out their sweetness and add some complexity to the dish.

If you do this yourself, you’ll truly see how simple the dish is to prepare. But be sure to serve the fish with all the pomp and ceremony you can muster.

It’s the only way.

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Whole baked fish with roasted vegetables

Total time: 1 hour

Servings: 4

Note: From chef Michael Cimarusti at Water Grill in Los Angeles. Fleur de sel is coarse sea salt.

Fish

1 whole striped bass (about 2 1/2 pounds)

Salt

1/2 lemon, cut into thin slices

1/2 bunch fresh thyme

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

2 fresh bay leaves

Fennel fronds from 1 fennel bulb

1. Rinse the fish thoroughly under running water; pat dry with paper towels. Generously sprinkle with salt. Place the sliced lemons in the cavity and layer the herbs and fennel fronds on top of the fish.

Assembly

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2 pounds fingerling potatoes

1 bulb fennel bulb, cut into 8 slices

1 head garlic, divided into cloves, unpeeled

2 bunches fresh spring onions, peeled and cut in half

2 anchovy filets

1 sprig fresh rosemary

2 sprigs fresh thyme

2 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces

1/2 pound small plum or large cherry tomatoes, cut in half

1 head garlic, cut in half horizontally

1/2 lemon

Sherry vinegar

Fleur de sel

2 tablespoons roughly chopped Italian parsley

1. Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Place a large roasting pan inside to heat for 5 minutes.

2. Remove the pan and brush the oil on the bottom, then add the potatoes, fennel, garlic, onions, anchovies, rosemary and thyme. Stir to coat. Roast for 15 minutes. Push the vegetables to one side and place the fish in the pan and scatter the butter around the vegetables and fish. Roast for 10 minutes. Carefully turn the fish over with a spatula. Continue roasting until the fish tests done, about 15 minutes; to check, insert the tip of a knife near the backbone of the fish at the thickest point. The fish should be opaque and pull away easily from the bone. Add the tomatoes the last 5 minutes of cooking.

3. Remove the fish and place on a warm serving platter. Rub the fish with the cut head of garlic carefully to avoid breaking the skin (this imparts a nice garlic flavor). Squeeze the half lemon over the fish, and sprinkle with the Sherry vinegar and fleur de sel to taste. Place the vegetables from the pan around the fish and sprinkle with the parsley.

Each serving: 471 calories; 233 mg. sodium; 134 mg. cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 50 grams carbohydrates; 33 grams protein; 8 grams fiber.

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Whole fish roasted in sea salt with aromatic herbs

Total time: 40 minutes

Servings: 4

Note: From Gino Angelini at Angelini Osteria in Los Angeles.

1 whole striped bass or red snapper (about 2 1/2 pounds)

5 cups sea salt (about 3 pounds)

1/4 cup flour

6 egg whites, lightly beaten

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon

1 teaspoon chopped parsley

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill

1 tablespoon lemon juice

3 tablespoons olive oil

Salt, to taste

1. Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Rinse the fish thoroughly under running water; pat dry with paper towels. Place the fish on the baking sheet.

3. Combine the sea salt, flour and egg whites in a large bowl. In another bowl, toss together the thyme, tarragon, parsley, rosemary and dill. Set aside 1/2 teaspoon of the herbs for the vinaigrette, then stir the remaining herbs into the salt mixture. Cover the entire fish with the mixture, patting it firmly onto the top and sides of the fish.

4. Bake until the fish tests done, about 20 to 25 minutes. To check if it’s done, use the tip of a small knife to break through the salt crust along the backbone of the fish at the thickest point. The fish should look opaque and easily pull away from the bone.

5. Remove the fish from the oven and let stand about 10 minutes. When the salt crust is cool enough to handle, gently crack it with the end of a knife, small hammer or mallet and remove. Peel the skin from the top of the fish. Lift the top half of the fish off the bone in large sections to a platter, then remove the center bone from the fish. Cut the meat from the bottom half into pieces and place on the platter.

6. Combine the lemon juice, olive oil, reserved 1/2 teaspoon herbs and salt to taste. Serve the vinaigrette with the fish.

Each serving: 208 calories; 664 mg. sodium; 51 mg. cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 0 carbohydrates; 23 grams protein; 0 fiber.

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How to buy the freshest fish

There are a few things to keep in mind when buying fresh fish.

* Look for clear bright eyes and no fishy smell.

* Touch the flesh -- it should spring back.

* If you are buying fish out of a tank, be sure it is not listless, a sign that it has been there awhile and will not taste fresh.

* You may have to order a 2 1/2- to 3-pound fish from a mainstream supermarket; Asian markets are good sources for whole fish that size. The Los Angeles Fish Co. warehouse in downtown Los Angeles (420 Stanford Ave., [213] 489-4236) also is a good source for fresh seafood. In general, you want a busy market that sells a lot of fish. If your fish will have a long ride home, ask for it to be packed in ice.

* Finally, cook your fish as soon as possible. Otherwise, store it at 30 to 34 degrees. Fish stored at 40 degrees will have half the shelf life.

Donna Deane

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A salt crust: It’s simple

STEP 1: After you’ve set the fish on a baking sheet and readied the herbs, combine sea salt and flour in a bowl.

STEP 2: Lightly beat egg whites, then add them to the bowl to hold the mixture together.

STEP 3: Pat the mixture over the fish, pressing gently so it adheres. As it bakes, it will form a hard crust.

STEP 4: Let the fish stand a few minutes so the crust cools, then break gently through the salt with a mallet.