2002 Barbolini Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro

The wine sheets down the sides of the glass, a lush crimson-purple with a head of raspberry foam. It’s Lambrusco, the fizzy red wine from Emilia-Romagna that most serious wine drinkers wouldn’t go near. The surprise is how delicious this one from Barbolini is, a mouthful of bright fruit and earth. It’s been so long since I’ve tasted a good Lambrusco, I’d forgotten that in Emilia-Romagna, it’s the classic accompaniment to prosciutto, salami, soppressata and any and all of Italy’s glorious cured pork products. It’s also the wine Paul Bertolli pours with his enticing cured meats. Leave it to Bertolli to get that detail right too.

Quick swirl

Region: Emilia-Romagna

Price: About $10

Style: A dry red with a fizz

Food it goes with: Sausage, ham, salami, mortadella, meat ragu and anything pork

Where you find it: Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Larchmont Village Wine & Cheese in Los Angeles, (323) 856-8699; and Woodland Hills Wine Company, (818) 222-1111.