Singing La Scala’s praises

La Scala, one of the world’s most celebrated opera theaters, reopened to the public and to music Tuesday after nearly three years of renovation that cost about $67 million.

“We achieved some sort of miracle by finishing work within the deadline. It’s something that all Milanese must be proud of,” said Deputy Mayor Riccardo De Corato as the city celebrated the return home of the Milan company.

La Scala performances were held in Milan’s modern Arcimboldi theater after the renovation began in 2002.

Italian Premier Silvio Berlusconi slipped through a side door to avoid protesters who were kept behind iron fences in front of the theater’s main entrance. He hosted several European leaders in the royal box for the gala evening, including Switzerland’s President Joseph Diess and the prime ministers of Croatia, Bulgaria and Albania.

The area around the theater -- near Milan’s Gothic-style cathedral -- was closed to traffic with more than 1,000 riot police guarding it against possible protesters.

The glamorous night with notables in top-drawer attire, including sumptuous furs, has long been a forum for protests. Tuesday’s opening was no exception, with dozens of anti-Berlusconi protesters shouting insults at the premier.

Laid-off autoworkers waved red flags as they protested “the party of the powerful” and the increasing use of temporary laborers in Italy.

Maestro Riccardo Muti, who expressed enthusiasm about the new acoustics following a rehearsal Sunday for theater workers, chose Antonio Salieri’s “Europa Riconosciuta” for the gala performance. The long-forgotten work inaugurated the first opening night at La Scala in 1778.

A sold-out audience gave Muti and the singers -- including sopranos Diana Damrau and Desiree Rancatore in the lead roles -- 12 minutes of convincing applause and 15 curtain calls. Director Luca Ronconi and company members joined Muti on the stage at the end of the triumphant opening night.

While Italy’s fashion and entertainment glitterati watched the opera from their seats, other opera lovers watched the performance on large video screens around town -- and even inside the city’s San Vittore prison.

The inauguration of the renewed La Scala came on the feast day of Milan’s patron saint, St. Ambrose, traditionally reserved for opening night, known here as “la prima.”

The holiday offered downtown Christmas shoppers a look at the theater’s newly painted facade, decorated for the occasion with red roses and green foliage. The 18th century theater was commissioned in 1773 by Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, then ruler of Milan.

The theater’s new look includes red velvet for seats and curtains, silk tapestry for the walls and screens on each seat to follow the libretto in English, French or Italian.