Here’s to yesteryear

Jeff Klein, the new owner of the Argyle Hotel on Sunset Strip, has brought back the Tower Bar, first opened in 1929, as part of his renovation plans for the landmark Art Deco hotel. Located to the left of the lobby, the new Tower is an inviting and sophisticated place with wood-paneled walls and long city views. (The old Fenix space, which looks out on the pool, will be used for private events.)

Curious about the framed black-and-white portraits covering the walls, I made a tour of the room and couldn’t find a single starlet I recognized. That’s the idea: the anonymous glamorous of a bygone era. There they are with finger-waved hair and furs draped around their shoulders, in top hats and tuxes, the photos in soft focus, autographed with a flourish.

Somehow, it’s a fitting setting for the new wave of glamorous hopefuls who flock to L.A. with their dreams of making it here. Perched on one of the comfy sofas and chairs tucked next to the windows, guests sip martinis or Manhattans and look east over the city and its constellation of lights. There aren’t many bars with views. This is one.

Diners glimpse the city lights too, at tables scattered throughout the room, and most offer enough distance for privacy. The soundtrack sets the mood with Billie Holiday, Nat King Cole and other period crooners. The atmosphere is soothing and sophisticated.

The lighting is low enough that we had to borrow a flashlight from the waiter to see the menu. (You might want to bring your own.) The chef is Collin Crannell, who has cooked at Chloe and various places around town. Here he’s come up with a modest menu of bistro classics.

To start, there’s frisee au lardons, the salad of feathery bitter greens with a poached egg to mix into the whole-grain mustard vinaigrette. Or you could choose fat spring asparagus topped with shaved Parmesan or the ubiquitous beet salad with blue cheese. There’s an unfortunately named “London muffin” that’s actually quite good. It’s potato blini topped with smoked salmon, a poached egg and a scoop of osetra caviar. Crispy sweetbreads on a lentil salad strewn with toasted hazelnuts is a good bet too. And if you want something lighter, Crannell will send out half a dozen oysters on the half shell.

Main courses include a cote de boeuf for two, a New York prime steak frites, lamb chops, etc. Ah, but there’s also duck a l’orange, a lost classic, here embellished with candied kumquats. No menu these days can go without braised short ribs or roast chicken with fingerling potatoes.

Crannell also has a Tower burger on the menu, with grilled onions and purple mustard -- but melted Brie?

For dessert, get the apple galette: individual packets of apples and a light crisp dough served with a ball of excellent vanilla ice cream.

Service, though, seems very tentative. But the place is quite new. So new, in fact, that the official opening is slated for today. I suspect that once it gets out that there’s a new bar with a view on the Strip, things will get much busier.

*

The Tower Bar

Where: 8358 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood

When: 5 p.m. to midnight Mondays through Saturdays. Full bar. Valet parking $7 with validation.

Cost: Appetizers, $9 to $24; main courses, $21 to $34; desserts, $8

Info: (323) 848-6677