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A Shakeup at O.C.’s Shake Shack

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Times Staff Writer

The Shake Shack, a tiny Orange County beachside landmark since 1945, has gone corporate.

The popular stand overlooking Crystal Cove State Park -- and famous for such frothy concoctions as Monkey Flips and date shakes -- reopened Monday after a weeklong renovation as part of the Ruby’s restaurant empire.

The wood building’s familiar bright yellow has changed to white and blue. And its employees now wear Ruby’s retro diner outfits. But not everything is different at the roadside pit stop.

Several of the old drinks and sandwiches are still served, although they aren’t all on the menu. If you still want the peanut butter, banana and honey sandwich, you have to ask.

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“It’s like the secret menu at In-N-Out [Burger],” said Jaime DeJong, project manager for the newly christened Ruby’s Shake Shack, on Coast Highway between Corona del Mar and Laguna Beach.

Once called Sunshine Cove, the stand has been selling shakes and spectacular views for more than 60 years. In 1989, state officials canceled longtime owner Virginia McKinney’s lease amid plans to widen Coast Highway. But the Shack was saved and Corona del Mar tavern owner Arden Flamson took over a year later.

The latest management switch was part of a deal to restore Crystal Cove’s historic beach cottages.

“We understand change is difficult, and we sympathize with that, but hopefully in time, people will appreciate it,” said Doug Cavanaugh, chief executive and founder of the Ruby Restaurant Group.

Under drizzly skies Monday afternoon, Shake Shack customers offered mixed reviews of the reincarnated stand.

“Ruby’s has better food,” said Jim Meads of Huntington Beach, chomping a roast beef sandwich and gazing at the ocean as a squirrel darted underfoot.

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But other customers lamented the passing of the torch.

“I’m really bummed,” said Mark Finster, a veteran Monkey Flip sipper who panned Ruby’s version of the chocolate-banana-date-and-peanut-butter shake. “This is definitely not the Monkey Flip I remember.”

New owner Cavanaugh said the company “did the best we could to glean recipes” from the previous owners. He also said some of the former menu items would be restored if there was enough demand.

Laura Davick, who grew up in one of Crystal Cove’s cottages and worked at the Shake Shack as a teen, said she hoped people would “keep an open mind” about the changes.

Seven years ago, Davick spearheaded the campaign to prevent the area from being turned into a luxury resort. Her group, the Crystal Cove Alliance, recently took over the concession contract for the site, which includes the soon-to-open vacation cottages and a beachside cafe that will also be run by Ruby’s.

“It’s going to be a magical spot,” Cavanaugh said.

The Shake Shack was repainted with “Santa Monica blue,” a color from the Santa Monica Pier in the 1940s, Cavanaugh said. “From what we’ve heard, the Shack wasn’t always yellow,” he added. “But we couldn’t find color photos.”

Mark Perez applauded the new hue. “The blue’s a little more soothing with the ocean,” the Laguna Hills resident said.

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But others missed the bright yellow paint. “You could see it from everywhere,” Finster said. “It was awesome.”

Richard Rozzelle, district supervisor for the state parks department, said resistance to change was normal. But he predicted it would be short-lived.

“The ambience is still there,” Rozzelle said. “You can still grab a sandwich and watch the dolphins go by or catch a sunset. Those are what memories are really made of.”

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