A select tasting of California Pinot Noirs

THE Times tasting panel met recently to assess two subgroups of California Pinot Noirs -- those made in the bigger, rounder style and wines from several fringe growing regions. Joining me for the tasting, which was conducted blind, were Food editor Leslie Brenner, columnist Russ Parsons, restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila and staff writer Corie Brown. Panelists were asked to focus on what, if anything, rendered each wine unique. Wines are listed in order of the panel’s preference.

2005 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Russian River Valley Stiling Vineyard Pinot Noir. From a small family-owned vineyard, this earthy wine has sweet red fruit aromas, with notes of pine, wintergreen and dried rose petals. Plenty of nerve and intensity, with a caramel-like oak component, a soft, supple texture and a nice minerality that makes you want to keep going back to the glass. Available at Larchmont Village Wine, Spirits & Cheese in Los Angeles, (323) 856-8699; and Silverlake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024, silverlakewine.com, about $36.

2005 Cargasacchi Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir. Beautifully lifted and light, there’s a gentleness to this Pinot with its scents of wild strawberry and plums. Nicely balanced with a bit of complexity and an earthy bottom note that grounds the wine and gives it length. One of the prettier wines on the table. Available at Twenty Twenty Wine Merchants in West Los Angeles, (310) 447-2020, www.2020wines.com, about $43.

2004 Stephen Ross Wine Cellars Arroyo Grande Valley Aubaine Vineyards Pinot Noir. A fascinating wine, vinous and deep, with powerful aromas of blueberries and black plum, with a hint of sage, thyme and rose petals. Still youthful on the palate, very concentrated and young, rippling with intensity. Available at Duke of Bourbon in Canoga Park, (818) 341-1234, dukeofbourbon.com; Larchmont Village Wine, Spirits & Cheese; and Manhattan Fine Wines in Manhattan Beach, (310) 374-3454, manhattanfinewines.com, about $36.

2005 Loring Wine Co. Santa Rita Hills Clos Pepe Vineyards Pinot Noir. A big extracted wine with a scent of crushed berries and ripe cherries. It’s well-balanced and likable, with plenty of fat, ripe flavor but not much subtlety. Ripe texture and intense concentration. Available at Twenty Twenty Wine Merchants; Wally’s Wine & Spirits in Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606, wallywine.com; and Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111, whwc.com, about $46.

2004 Varner Santa Cruz Mountains Spring Ridge Vineyard “Hidden Block” Pinot Noir. A peculiar wine at first: Like a Burgundy, it exhibits more savory scent of green herbs and lavender than fruit, but the fruit seemed to gather with air. On the palate, it’s cool and beautiful, with hints of menthol, herbs, tobacco, blood and earth in intriguing layers of flavor. “I want to keep coming back to it,” one taster said, “not because I love it, but I want to understand it, like a bad boyfriend.” Available at K&L; Wine Merchants, Hollywood, (323) 464-9463, klwines.com, about $36.

2005 Capiaux Cellars Sonoma County “Chimera” Pinot Noir. From a variety of mostly Sonoma Coast sources, this Pinot is deep and dark in color, with scents of raspberry and plum, juicy Bing cherry flavor. “Big fruit, one note,” one panelist said. Available at Bristol Farms in West Hollywood, (310) 248-2804 ; and Woodland Hills Wine Co., about $25.

2004 Red Car Winery Russian River Valley “Amour Fou” Pinot Noir. The biggest and baddest of the bunch, reflecting a newer, more high-powered style that resembles Syrah in intensity and structure. A powerfully red-fruited wine with lots of chunky oak and a velvety texture that hints at Russian River nuance but takes it over the edge. “Over the top,” one taster wrote, and that it is, for those who like their Pinots big. Available at Du Vin Wine & Spirits in West Hollywood, (310) 855-1161, du-vin.com; and Silverlake Wine, about $55.

2004 Sinor-LaVallee Wine Co. Arroyo Grande Valley Aubaine Vineyards Pinot Noir. Every bit as brooding and intense as the Stephen Ross, it has a dark savory oak aroma along with black plum and cocoa. On the palate, flavors of plum, blueberry and spicy, molasses-like oak. The texture is gripping. Available at Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454, winex.comabout $35.

-- Patrick Comiskey