They have a bright idea

IT’S a giggle to call up this new Melrose Avenue watering hole just to hear the British-accented voice on the other end answer, “The Village Idiot.” What a name. When I told two friends to meet me there one night, I’m sure they thought this was going to be one of my more unfortunate gastronomic expeditions. But when my friend Mary saw the place, she knew exactly what it was supposed to be: a British pub. The whimsical sketch of a village idiot on the sign is the sure giveaway.

Never mind that the ceilings are lofty, instead of cozy, or that it’s housed in a warehouse-sized space, once Part One and Two of the defunct Italian restaurant Chianti, which was founded in 1938. It couldn’t be more different from that earlier space. Now there’s a giant horseshoe-shaped bar in the middle, an open kitchen to one side and high booths lined up against the windows; booths so comfortable, it seems, that one woman is sleeping with her head on her boyfriend’s shoulder there. Either that or too much Boddingtons brew from England or 1903 Lager on draft from Craftsman Brewing Co. in Pasadena. Or any of the five other draft beers, along with a standard lineup of bottled beer, plus a dozen wines by the glass, and slightly more by the bottle.

What’s to eat? Traditional pub fare along with some more fashionable modern American dishes. The one-page menu is short and sweet with an appealing lineup of starters. There’s rock shrimp and scallion fritters studded with delicate, barely cooked shrimp, hearts of romaine salad in lemon caper dressing crowned with a Parmesan crisp, a huge bowl of glossy black mussels with croutons and shaved fennel, or a comforting goat cheese and leek tart.

The best, though, has to be that steak-and-potato pie I spied someone at the bar having for supper with a pint of Guinness. But it can do double duty as an appetizer to share. The crust is buttery and short, the beef inside tender and flavorful. I’d come back just for this single dish.

Behind the stoves is chef Lindsay Kennedy, a veteran of One Market in San Francisco, who seems to know what he’s doing. His two partners know something about pubs, having lived in London. The food comes out fast and in proper order, which is pretty amazing considering how thronged the place has been now that word is getting out. (It’s been open just three weeks.)

I watch as the couple at the next table solemnly clink glasses of beer to the new year, the new you. She digs into her grilled chicken but only picks at the overly vinegary warm bread salad with arugula and pine nuts. He digs into his fat pub burger, which comes accessorized with balsamic onion relish and a pile of hand-cut fries.

I liked the look of the fish and chips, especially the chips, which have deep gold crispy edges. The fish has a nice batter, but it could have more flavor. And the bubble and squeak that comes with the wood-grilled rib-eye seems somehow undercooked, the cabbage more California crisp than Britain’s soft rags of cabbage mixed with mashed potatoes. The idea of bubble and squeak gratin doesn’t quite fly. But it’s the early days yet. Time to get the cornmeal crust on the catfish just right and to figure out that the catfish might work better served beside that delicious mess of black-eyed peas, mustard greens and andouille sausage instead of on top.

For dessert, there’s just two items at the moment, a dark, moist molasses-laced gingerbread cake with pear compote and creme fraiche. And a delicious custardy apple tart. But they’ve just hired a pastry chef, so more will be on offer soon. And since they’ve just opened for lunch, I think it’s imperative to go back and try the new desserts along with that pub burger I missed the first time around.

virbila@latimes.com

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The Village Idiot

Where: 7383 Melrose Ave. (at the northeast corner of Martel Avenue), Los Angeles

When: Open from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily; late night menu served from 11 p.m. to midnight Sunday through Thursday, until 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Street parking during the day; valet in the evening.

Cost: Salads and starters, $6 to $12; mains, $10 to $23; sides, $4; dessert, $5

Info: (323) 655-3331; www.villageidiotla.com (currently the site features only the logo)