UNDERRATED / OVERRATED

RYAN BLACK’S 88’S CABARET

This cabaret in Republic Restaurant (650 N. La Cienega Blvd.) offers once-a-month Broadway-style entertainment for 20 bucks and a dinner reservation. Sometimes, crooners from L.A. Opera or Tony-nominated shows have even been known to pop by. This Monday: Georgia Stitt.

VIRGIL’S HARDWARE

Whether you’re looking for houseplants, hammers or nails, this old-fashioned neighborhood hardware store in Glendale (520 N. Glendale Ave.) is a throwback to an era bereft of big box stores.

HOLLYWOOD WAX MUSEUM

In our digital era, this archaic showcase (6767 Hollywood Blvd.) of Tinseltown’s luminaries seems all the more lovable. Wax likenesses of Clint Eastwood, Elizabeth Taylor and David Hasselhoff may not look entirely accurate, but that’s the fun.

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THE ALCOVE

There are many things we like about this Los Feliz eatery (1929 Hillhurst Ave.). It has a lovely courtyard, if you can manage to snag a free table, and the staff is cheerful and friendly. But, apart from the cakes and coffee, the food is bland and, in a twist on the old Woody Allen bit, the portions are way too huge.

UNIVERSAL BAR & GRILL

This North Hollywood watering hole (4093 Lankershim Blvd.) touts itself as “part restaurant, part nightclub and part local hangout.” We humbly suggest the addition of “part pressure cooker.” On a recent visit there, the place was wall-to-wall people, thirsty people, but had only one bartender on duty. And the 10 minutes we spent standing at the bar waiting for a drink were filled with overblown rock from a mediocre live band. It wasn’t pretty, people.