Want to fully experience the beauty of 17-Mile Drive? Bike it

Good morning, and welcome to the Essential California newsletter. It’s Tuesday, June 20.

I’m a SoCal boy, born and raised. This will always feel like home. But if someone could experience only one part of California, I’d tell them without hesitation: visit the pristine Monterey County coastline.

Perhaps the best place to take in the natural splendor is 17-Mile Drive, between Pacific Grove and Carmel-by-the-Sea. It’s a popular route to drive, which I’ve done on previous trips. But if you want to fully experience this coastal gem, consider ditching the car and hopping on a bicycle.

That’s what my wife and I did on a recent trip to the Monterey Bay area — our third in two years. We rented e-bikes for all the two-wheeled thrills without the sweat.

Cyclists are common along the winding Pebble Beach road, though there aren’t dedicated bike lanes for much of the route. Drivers sometimes had to slow down behind us, though we traveled at a decent clip of about 20 mph, thanks to some battery-powered assistance. None of them honked, thankfully.

(Ryan Fonseca / Los Angeles Times)

Maybe our pace was actually a blessing, I thought. Drive too fast and you’ll miss some of the natural beauty you paid to access at the entrance gate. Those in a hurry on this scenic route miss the point. There’s no journey here — all of this is the destination.

That’s easier to see from the seat of a bicycle. The experience is a mix of freedom and exposure, blending to ensure you stay in the moment. You’re more aware of your surroundings in practical ways — the bumps and cracks in the asphalt, the curves in the road and the cars that zip along next to you. But there are also rich details you might miss behind the wheel — the wildflowers blooming along the road, the sea breeze on your face, the symphony of waves crashing, birds singing and sea lions barking in the distance.

I don’t fool myself into thinking of Pebble Beach as “untouched” natural beauty. Well-manicured, professional-grade golf courses aren’t found in the wild. Nor are the multi-million-dollar homes that peek out from the tree line along the route. Biking past them, I stop myself from lingering too long on the opposite of what beckoned us here.

Along the way, drivers and cyclists alike stopped to admire the rugged shoreline, mesmerizing blue water and the wildlife it sustains. We caught a glimpse of sea otters, their furry heads popping above the surface from their haven of the kelp forest. Squadrons of pelicans soared overhead as seals snoozed on rocks that didn’t look comfortable (I’m guessing their built-in blubber helps).

We also found ourselves observing all sorts of sightseers: the family eagerly asking if we’ve seen any seals; the guy ignoring signs and hand-feeding potato chips to squirrels; the man quizzing his kids on why Bird Rock is so white (“Poop!” they yell, correctly); the carload of older folks too underwhelmed by the Lone Cypress to get out of their parked vehicle.

Brittney Rodriguez, my partner in life and cycling, takes in the sights (and smells) of pelicans and other sea birds resting near Bird Rock on a recent bike ride along Pebble Beach.

(Ryan Fonseca / Los Angeles Times)

Near Pescadero Point I looked up to see the rich green canopies of Monterey cypresses overhead — a view that might have been obscured in a motorized metal box. And above the trees, the unmistakable wingspan of a California condor, vigilant for a meal. Look around long enough and you might slip out of your modern existence for a moment or two — until a luxury sports car revs past.

After about 9.5 miles, we reached Carmel Beach and took a beat in the sand to sip water and munch on granola bars. We briefly meandered through affluent neighborhoods of Carmel-by-the-Sea, passing multi-million-dollar homes as I remember that Clint Eastwood served a term as mayor here.

Then it’s time to take the route back to the bike rental shop in Pacific Grove. A wrong turn took us up into the forested hillsides before we realized our mistake — though, are there any wrong turns on a scenic ride?

We rode north along the coastline, taking full advantage of our bikes’ throttle feature, waving to fellow cyclists heading south. As we passed the golf course again, we pulled off to the side. Right off the road, a group of deer grazed along the fairway, unfazed by our presence or passing cars.

Deer graze along the edge of a golf course in Pebble Beach.

(Ryan Fonseca / Los Angeles Times)

Watching them, I thought about the orders of nature playing out: the ancient forests of a cypress species found naturally only here, the massive ocean sanctuary teeming with life, and the myriad animals that can’t read the many “private property” signs, all convening. It all endures somehow both with our help and despite our presence.

I wondered: “Am I spoiling all this just by being here?”

I put the existential aside and got back on my bike. We rolled on up the coast, hugging the edge of these collided worlds.

And now, here’s what’s happening across California:

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JUNETEENTH IN L.A. AND BEYOND

Column: Juneteenth is about freedom. And it can be found on L.A.’s New Orleans Corridor. Erika D. Smith spent Saturday amid the revelry at South L.A.’s newly christened New Orleans Corridor. The designation along a stretch of Jefferson Boulevard highlights the cultural links between New Orleans and California, as millions of Black people moved west on Southern Pacific Railroad’s Sunset Route. Los Angeles Times

A delegation who traveled from New Orleans with Mayor LaToya Cantrell leads community members in a second line down the newly named “New Orleans Corridor” on Saturday, June 17, in Los Angeles.

(Jason Armond / Los Angeles Times)

Essay: A new way of looking at Juneteenth. The holiday is a celebration of emancipation, but as Jamil Smith argues, it also presents “an underused opportunity to teach and learn about the history of Black labor.” Los Angeles Times

Despite becoming a national holiday, Juneteenth is still an unpaid state holiday in California. But the union for state workers is looking to change that. The Sacramento Bee

POLITICS AND GOVERNMENT

A popular program that helps poor Californians buy fresh fruits and vegetables from farmers’ markets could be on the chopping block. Sacramento Democrats’ latest budget plan does include funding for the Market Match program, though CalFresh recipients and farmers worry that could change amid ongoing negotiations to address the state’s $31.5-billion deficit. CalMatters

President Biden was in Palo Alto on Tuesday as part of multi-day visit to the Golden State. He’s set to highlight funding to address the climate crisis, but his visit is also aimed at raising some funds for his reelection bid. Los Angeles Times

CRIME, COURTS AND POLICING

Two people were in custody after what San Francisco police called a “car-to-car” gun battle near San Francisco’s Pier 39 Sunday. Six people were wounded in the shooting — four of them bystanders, including a 10-year-old girl. San Francisco Chronicle

The family of 31-year-old teacher Keenan Anderson filed a wrongful-death lawsuit against the city of Los Angeles, alleging excessive force by police officers. Anderson died Jan. 3 after a minor traffic collision in Venice after officers piled on top of him and Tasered him. Los Angeles Times

HEALTH AND THE ENVIRONMENT

The Fourth of July is just a couple weeks away, which means people will be traveling and gathering to enjoy hot dogs, beer and the inevitable flaming palm. But could it also bring a surge in COVID-19 cases? L.A. County health officials hope promising case rates will buck the summer spike trend. Los Angeles Times

A bear cub was struck by two drivers and killed as it tried to cross the 14 Freeway in Santa Clarita. There aren’t solid stats on how many bears are killed on state highways each year, but wildlife experts noted a surge of bear deaths last year, citing wildfires and drought. Los Angeles Times

AND FINALLY

Today’s California landmark is from Ian Stewart of Kelowna, British Columbia: Griffith Observatory.

Griffith Observatory, photographed in April 2019.

(Ian Stewart)

Ian writes:

What are California’s essential landmarks? Fill out this form to send us your photos of a special spot in California — natural or human-made. Tell us why it’s interesting and what makes it a symbol of life in the Golden State. Please be sure to include only photos taken directly by you. Your submission could be featured in a future edition of the newsletter.

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