Looking for the best in Los Angeles cookies? We’ve got you covered
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Good morning, and welcome to the Essential California newsletter. It’s Sunday, May 26. I’m your host, Andrew J. Campa. I hope you’re enjoying the holiday weekend. Here’s what you need to know to start your weekend:
- Los Angeles is in the midst of a cookie craze.
- Regulators blame Sheriff’s Department for fire that killed deputy.
- Women’s hoops phenom Caitlin Clark is electric in L.A. visit.
- And here’s today’s e-newspaper
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Los Angeles is a cookie monster
Cookies are enjoying a renaissance in Los Angeles. Nowadays, the city is flush with standout bakeries ready to satisfy every type of craving from these joyful delights.
Even famed East Coast bakeries want to jump into the action, with New York titan Levain landing on Larchmont Boulevard with their signature 6-ounce cookies.
Bustling lines are expected at James Beard-nominated Gusto Bread in Long Beach, with customers stocking up on sweet and savory pastries that draw from the owners’ Mexican and Argentine heritages.
West Adams’ news spot — Fleurs et Sel — pulls inspiration from France with fat, chewy cookies that weave floral ingredients with nostalgic flavors.
History repeats itself
This recent cookie explosion mirrors one nearly 50 years ago.
In 1975, former music industry business manager Wally Amos opened what some consider the first gourmet or upscale cookie bakery on Sunset Boulevard. He named the shop “Famous Amos” (yeah, that Famous Amos).
Within 10 years, Famous Amos boasted 70 retail outlets, while selling about 80% of its cookies in supermarkets.
The idea came after Amos received rave reviews from fellow industry executives after baking and bringing cookies to meetings.
In 1977, Mrs. Field’s of Palo Alto, David’s Cookies of New York, founded by a classically trained French chef, and Great American Cookies, home of the cookie cake, were all born due in part to Amos’ success.
What this new wave of cookie bakery growth will produce should be a fun and delicious story to follow.
Meanwhile, check out our list of 24 of the best cookies in L.A. to crush your sweet tooth. Here are some of our favorites.
Alfajor de nuez at Gusto Bread
A child waiting in line on a recent Sunday at Gusto wailed to his dad, “Why does this place have to be so popular?!”
Such is the demand for breads and pastries from the Long Beach bakery that once operated inside Arturo Enciso and Ana Belén Salatino’s living room.
On many days, there will be a long line (sorry, kid!) for Enciso’s rustic loaves and baked goods such as springy, cheesy jalapeño bolillos and cocoa-sprinkled chocolate conchas.
As with his polvorones, Enciso uses walnuts for the alfajores, the South American sandwich cookies that are typically extra-soft, melt-in-your-mouth and pale (as in no browned edges). Gusto’s alfajores are nutty, soft but toothsome and slightly browned.
Almond cookie from Largwa
The signature sweets found via the baker’s Largwa pop-ups are almost always cookies. The self-described “cookie girlie” riffs on a number of classics — including thumbprint cookies, Oreos, madeleines and a s’mores-and-chocolate chip mashup.
However, one of the least flashy is also one of the best: the brown-butter almond cookie, a nod to the crumbly, crunchy almond cookie, and especially the version made by the L.A.-based Amay’s Bakery & Noodle Co., which sells wholesale almond cookies far and wide.
Amaretti ai pignoli at Eagle Rock Italian Bakery & Deli
In the hall of great Italian cookies, it’s hard to beat the amaretti ai pignoli. The chewy, gluten-free treats rely on almond paste for their nutty, soft center and egg whites for an almost meringue-like outer shell, while an onslaught of pine nuts forms a just-toasted crunchy layer atop it all.
So few bakeries and restaurants make these fresh year-round in Los Angeles, but Eagle Rock Italian Bakery & Deli has been at it for more than 70 years. “Nobody does this,” co-owner Anthony Cafarchia laughed. “It’s too much work.”
The week’s biggest stories
Policing, courts and politics
- Skipped inspections, lax maintenance: Regulators blame Sheriff’s Department for fire that killed deputy.
- Man arrested in attack on UCLA pro-Palestinian protesters.
- A slingshot-wielding vandal shattered glass in Azusa for years. An 81-year-old suspect has been arrested.
- Police pressured him to confess to a murder that never happened. Now, Fontana will pay him $900,000.
- Riverside woman who bombarded Jewish family with ‘hate-filled’ phone calls sentenced to prison.
- California dreams end in nightmare for woman charged in violent wrong-way 405 Freeway crash.
- Off-duty LAPD officer arrested for alleged assault with a deadly weapon.
- Attorney accuses LAPD internal affairs unit of revealing alleged sex-hazing victims’ names.
- Police descend on UCLA after protesters erect new pro-Palestinian encampment.
- Marqueece Harris-Dawson secures enough support to become the next L.A. City Council president.
Environment, nature and healthcare
- Forecasts call for an active hurricane season. Could California see another Hilary?
- Cleanup of polluted Southern California ‘brownfields’ gets a $3-million boost from feds.
- In striking before-and-after photos, a parched Lake Shasta is transformed.
- Dead baby sea lions showing up along California coastal islands. Researchers aren’t sure why.
- Good news for desert tortoises: Stretch of Mojave Desert gets federal protections.
- How ‘Sesame Street’ can prepare kids for climate disasters.
- Early signs of rising COVID in California as new FLiRT subvariants dominate.
- Researchers keep finding microplastics everywhere: Now in human and dog testes.
Housing and labor
- South Lake Tahoe split over proposal to tax property owners who leave homes vacant.
- Hotel strike nears end as union reaches more tentative deals with holdouts.
- Looking to vacation on the California coast? Marin County just made it harder.
- UC worker strike to hit UCLA, Davis next. A looming question: Is this walkout legal?
- California will force Malibu and other towns to add housing. Here’s why that’s not nearly enough.
Entertainment and culture
- Morgan Spurlock, filmmaker who documented dangers of McDonald’s-only diet, dies at 53.
- Raul Porto Sr., patriarch of the Porto’s Bakery empire, dies at 92.
- Richard Sherman, who supplied the songs and musical magic for Walt Disney, dies at 95.
- The tale of two women confronting crime in San Francisco, 80 years apart.
- In the working-class desert odyssey ‘Accordion Eulogies,’ Noé Álvarez searches for his grandfather.
- New Mexico judge denies Alec Baldwin’s motion to dismiss criminal case in ‘Rust’ shooting.
- The fate of California newspapers could be sealed in coming months. Do ‘carnage’ and ‘catastrophe’ await?
- The six best movies we saw at the 2024 Cannes Film Festival.
- Patricia Richardson is proud of ‘Home Improvement’ but says, ‘Hollywood hates our show.’
- The 2024 box office is terrible. But Imax’s big-screen appeal is a bright spot.
- With ‘Divino Desmadre,’ Jean Dawson is singing in his love language.
- Four years after George Floyd, the backlash is underway.
Caitlin Clark’s Los Angeles debut
- Caitlin Clark helps fuel Fever surge in comeback victory over Sparks.
- Caitlin Clark brings the magic during her Hollywood debut.
- Is Caitlin Clark behind WNBA’s new popularity? Angel Reese says it’s more than ‘just one person.’
- As Caitlin Clark makes her L.A. debut, Sparks plan to win over the WNBA’s newest fans.
- Caitlin Clark marketing boom is celebrated but also draws questions of race and equity.
- Letters to Sports: Caitlin Clark is to the WNBA what Tiger Woods was to golf.
Sports news
- Taylor Tinsley shines, leading UCLA past Georgia and into Women’s College World Series.
- Travis Kelce won’t judge Harrison Butker, even though kicker referenced Taylor Swift in speech.
- Robots calling balls and strikes in MLB? Rob Manfred says ABS system unlikely in 2025.
More big stories
- Trump and GOP repeatedly echo Nazi and far-right ideology as they aim to retake White House.
- Top U.N. court orders Israel to halt military assault in Rafah; Israel is unlikely to comply.
- There is a new deadline to get the Real ID. Here’s why you need one.
- Metro advances rail extension in the South Bay, and not everyone is happy.
- As more Californians fall behind in making debt payments, one group stands out.
- LAUSD caves to public outcry: No more timed testing for 4-year-olds.
- SUV with fuel canisters explodes in Van Nuys after man tries to light up inside, authorities say.
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Column One
Column One is The Times’ home for narrative and longform journalism. Here’s a great piece from this week:
It was nearly dark outside when Blaire Van Valkenburgh strode through the woods, lanterns dangling from both hands, to visit the soil that was once her husband. She walked easily through a tangle of roots and rocks to a small bowl-shaped glade just visible from her kitchen window on Orcas Island, Wash. She and her husband of 40 years, Robert Wayne, had planned to retire here. Then he was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer.
More great reads
- Here’s how to actually show appreciation for teachers.
- In the land of giant sequoias, the largest tree in the world gets a checkup.
- Hijacked: A renter turned L.A. home into an illegal Airbnb from 5,000 miles away, lawsuit says
- A neighbor with a secret: Mom killed young son, hid out in L.A. apartment for a year, police say.
- California settled the no-fault divorce question decades ago. Why is it back in the news?
How can we make this newsletter more useful? Send comments to essentialcalifornia@latimes.com.
For your weekend
Going out
- 📸 Photographer and blogger Todd Selby has photographed throughout Los Angeles. Here’s his perfect Sunday.
- 🎪 Summer kicks off at the Fiesta Hermosa in Hermosa Beach with food, drinks, live music and a carnival.
- 🎈 Bands, games, food are available at the 49th annual Topanga Days Country Fair, beginning at 10 a.m.
Staying in
- 🏁 The 108th running of the Indianapolis 500 gets going around 9:30 a.m. on NBC.
- 🦅 PBS is airing the National Memorial Day Concert, beginning at 8 p.m.
- 🧑🍳 For all those firing up their grills this Memorial Day, here’s McCormick’s grilled hamburger recipe.
- ✏️ Get our free daily crossword puzzle, Sudoku, word search and arcade games.
L.A. Affairs
Get wrapped up in tantalizing stories about dating, relationships and marriage.
Luis and I met when we were in our 40s. He was my daughter’s guitar teacher, although taking her to her lessons fell under the jurisdiction of my late husband, Joel. Luis and I had met only a handful of times. Although I found him attractive, we were not on each other’s radars until I was nearly a year into my widowhood.
Editor’s note: There will be no Essential California tomorrow. Enjoy your Memorial Day! We’ll be back in your inbox Tuesday.
Have a great weekend, from the Essential California team
Andrew J. Campa, reporter
Carlos Lozano, news editor
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