Dystopian apparel: The making of 'The Handmaid's' blood-red robes

Dystopian apparel: The making of ‘The Handmaid’s’ blood-red robes

May 2, 2017 12:45 PM PT

There are plenty of elements in Hulu’s adaptation of “The Handmaid’s Tale” that have people talking, but few are as immediately eye-catching as the gowns worn by the handmaids themselves.

Costume designer Ane Crabtree (“Westworld,” “Masters of Sex”) shared her secrets (and photo stash) with The Times, detailing the creative process behind one of the most distinctive costumes on television.

Designing for the end of the world

Crabtree found inspiration from a variety of sources, from repressive cultural regimes to the natural world to her own two feet.

The gowns had to be versatile and, though not evidenced in early episodes, had different versions depending on the season. In the first few episodes, the gowns are made of an extremely thin rayon that was available in the deep red color, meaning the fabric did not need the additional step of being dyed before construction.

A full-length look at the dress. (George Kraychyk / Hulu)

A handmaid’s wardrobe includes

White caplet
White wings (not pictured)
Blood red gown
Blood red wool cape (not pictured)
White undergarments (not pictured)
Brown boots
Brown boot guards

What’s not there

Missing from the handmaid gowns are modern conveniences, like buttons, zippers, pockets and, darkly, shoelaces.

While pockets and shoelaces were removed as a way to keep a rebel populace in check, Crabtree had other reasons for excluding other details.

I visually erased details of clothing that we're all used to.
— Ane Crabtree

A closet full of cloaks and wings. (George Kraychyk / Hulu)

Costume haves and have-nots

Missing

Buttons
Zippers
Pockets
Shoelaces

Added

Obi/corset
Ear tag
Modesty flap

DIY maternity wear

Because it’s a handmaid’s ultimate goal to become pregnant, it was a logical extension that their wardrobe be maternity-ready, a trick Crabtree managed by utilizing an obi belt or corset, depending on actress body type.

Below, Madeline Brewer’s character illustrates those small styling adjustments for pregnancy.

The best design is made to solve problems.
— Ane Crabtree

Beneath their wings

The iconic wings are actually a two-part affair. Underneath there’s a caplet worn at all times, covering the hair, and over, a set of wings designed to shield them from view in public.

With a linen exterior, the wings provided enough diffuse light in outdoor shots to serve as modified light boxes on the actresses’ faces.

This promotional shot featuring Alexis Bledel depicts the layering of the caplet and wings. (Take Five / Hulu)

The muse

Crabtree had a secret weapon in Elisabeth Moss when it came to designing for “Handmaid’s Tale.”

The way Moss moved determined whether a fabric was appropriate; the way she used the wings determined whether or not they were tenable.

Lizzie [Moss] is a great scientist. She went through every trial to figure out what would work and she did something amazing with those wings.
— Ane Crabtree

Television

Libby Hill

Libby Hill is a former television reporter for the Los Angeles Times. Her TV analysis has appeared at Salon, Vulture, Rolling Stone and the New York Times. Hill, a native of South Dakota, has a passel of cats, too many books and a perpetually full DVR.