Why Wait for First Snow (When will THAT be?!) to Hit the Slopes – Argentina Offers Pristine Summer-For-Us Skiing
While SoCal’s summer sunshine is one of the region’s great allures, diehard skiers can find themselves counting down to winter and a return to the slopes. But there’s a hack – head to Argentina for some Southern Hemisphere snow! And, if this sounds unattainable, consider gathering a few similarly “ski-sick” friends and splitting a self-catering apartment or house at one of Argentina’s top winter sport resorts.
Skiing in Argentina
Home to many of South America’s tallest mountains, Argentina boasts nine significant ski resorts plus many smaller winter sport areas. Olympic ski teams from the Northern Hemisphere visit the country for summer training, drawn to its quality powder and easy access to its slopes. Argentina’s ski resorts are mostly in Mendoza province on the eastern side of the soaring Andes range along the border with Chile; against the lower Andean slopes of Patagonia’s picturesque Lake District; and at much lower altitude near Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost city. The Argentine ski season typically runs from June to October, with July and August being the peak.
MENDOZA
Las Leñas
South America’s best-known ski resort, Las Leñas opened in 1983 and has hosted multiple Alpine Skiing World Cup events. Its slopes range from easy to extreme, but Las Leñas is renowned for pulse-pumping double-black diamond chutes and adrenalized backcountry adventures in lift-accessed backcountry. An average annual snowfall of 250 inches, plus 30 snowmaking cannons, offer reassurance before making the long trek south, while 9,500 person-per-hour lift capacity and a famously vibrant après ski scene leave the focus firmly on fun. Las Leñas has seven apartment hotels offering accommodations for up to eight guests, plus the dedicated Apartur apartment building and the swanky Nieve Club. A week at an Apartur apartment in July can cost less than $3,000 – equivalent to around $50 per person/night when fully occupied.
Los Penitentes
If skiing is just part of your Argentina itinerary or you want to sample multiple resorts, Los Penitentes is a medium-sized setup good for a couple of nights or even a day trip from the city of Mendoza. Nestled against the looming Andes, it’s largely a domestic destination that may feel basic compared to resorts tailored to international guests. But accommodation and the slightly sluggish lifts are affordable, plus there’s another small ski area three miles away, Los Puquios, perfect for learners (half of Los Penitentes’ runs are rated red or black). Even in high season, a three-night stay for six in a two-bedroom apartment at Aires de Montaña, right in Los Penitentes, works out at just $25 each per night.
PATAGONIA LAKE DISTRICT
Cerro Catedral
With 75 miles of runs and cat roads, Cerro Catedral is the largest ski resort in the Southern Hemisphere. The lake and mountain views are stunning, and this well-developed complex offers excellent intermediate through expert terrain, including off-piste options. One of the few ski resorts on the continent that features a true village, it’s also just 11 miles from the lively tourist city (and major airport) of Bariloche. Cerro Catedral can get very busy, so a lift fast pass is highly recommended, especially as the best and most consistent snow is towards the top of the mountain. The village includes around 7,000 guest beds in hotels, apartments, cabanas and houses. Although a good walk from the lifts, a 3-bedroom house can be rented for $2,100/week during peak season.
Cerro Chapelco
Cerro Chapelco is a striking, modern resort ideal for families and intermediate-level skiers. While there’s no lodging on the mountain itself, the charmingly alpine town of San Martin de Los Andes is just miles away and has more than fifty hotels, hostels and cabins of all standards. Chapelco’s slopes cater to a range of abilities, with good beginner terrain and a 200-instructor ski/snowboard school, plus excellent sidecountry and backcountry. There’s a wide choice of restaurants and equipment rentals, plus dog sledding, snowmobiling and snowshoeing. Although established in 1946, the lifts and infrastructure are up to date, but can be overwhelmed during holidays. Fly into Chapelco Airport, just 12 miles from San Martin, where 2-bedroom apartments start at below $800 for a peak week and a 3-bedroom townhouse can be enjoyed for around $1,500.
USHUAIA
Cerro Castor
The area around the city of Ushuaia has hosted numerous Olympic ski teams for summer training, including top Swiss, Canadian and French athletes. The sought-after conditions are due to its extreme southern latitude rather than altitude, with the base of Cerro Castor ski resort only 640 feet above sea level. Relatively easy to reach from Buenos Aires, the contemporary facilities – Cerro Castor only opened in 1999 – attract both Argentines and global visitors keen to ski at the “end of the world.” Snow is consistent yet Cerro Castor seldom gets crowded, especially on weekdays. It can be expensive, but the entire area is extremely memorable and a peak season 3-bedroom townhouse in Ushuaia can still be had for as little as $560/week – pretty reasonable to ski up to the end of the Earth!
-Paul Rogers
