Jonathan Gold restaurant review: Mari Vanna

Vinegret made with refreshing beet salad, dressed with sunflower oil.  (Liz O. Baylen / Los Angeles Times)

Korushka with three whole smelt served with boiled potatoes, butter and dill.  (Liz O. Baylen / Los Angeles Times)

Mari Vanna, with restaurants also in Moscow, London, New York and Washington, is known for it’s Russian fairy-tale decor.  (Liz O. Baylen / Los Angeles Times)

Potato vareniki is made with potato dumplings, sauteed onions and sour cream.  (Liz O. Baylen / Los Angeles Times)

Elena Stepanova, who is visiting from New York, has a glass of wine. Stepanova, who used to work in the New York location of the restaurant, recommended the infused vodkas.   (Liz O. Baylen / Los Angeles Times)

Chicken Kiev is a battered chicken breast lightly fried and finished in the oven, filled with a butter sauce and then served with seasonal fruit.  (Liz O. Baylen / Los Angeles Times)

Shuba, also called Herring Under a Fur Coat, is layers of herring, potatoes, carrots, beets and onions topped with egg with a touch of mayonnaise.   (Liz O. Baylen / Los Angeles Times)

Blini veal includes three crepes filled with veal and served with sour cream.  (Liz O. Baylen / Los Angeles Times)

Server Alina Yamaeva, middle, takes a cellphone picture for two customers after their dinner. Part of the decor theme is birdhouses.   (Liz O. Baylen / Los Angeles Times)