Jonathan Gold reviews Bone Kettle in Pasadena

Black rice pudding with flowers is on the dessert menu at Bone Kettle.   (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Fried oxtail tips at Bone Kettle.   (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Citrus brine chicken wings.   (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Ube gnocchi is on the menu at Bone Kettle in Pasadena.   (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Bone Kettle noodles and broth with beef ribs.  (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Erwin Tjahyadi sits in front of a mural by artist Cleon Peterson that anchors the main dining room at Bone Kettle restaurant in Pasadena.  (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

The exterior of Bone Kettle restaurant in Old Town Pasadena.   (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Staff prepare Bone Kettle restaurant for evening customers in Pasadena.   (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Black pepper clams are on the menu at Bone Kettle restaurant in Pasadena.   (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)