Jonathan Gold reviews Tacos & Mezcal

Tacos chileajo, Oaxaca-style pork shoulder with potatoes and chile guajillo at Tacos & Mezcal in Bell.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Nov. 17, 2017 10:10 AM PT

Street corn, roasted corn, sour cream, lime and house chile powder at Tacos & Mezcal in Bell.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times )

Alambre, pan seared skirt steak, chorizo, bacon and bell peppers with melted mozzarella at Tacos & Mezcal in Bell.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Vegan tacos, sweet and roasted corn with chipotle creama and Parmesan cheese at Tacos & Mezcal in Bell.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Chileago, pork shoulder soft-stewed Oaxaca style with chile guajillo and potatoes served with hand-made gluten-free tortillas at Tacos & Mezcal in Bell.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Cochinita pibil, slow oven-cooked pork shoulder with achiote and finished with house pickled red onion at Tacos & Mezcal in Bell.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Tacos & Mezcal in Bell.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Mezcal Joya Azul at Tacos & Mezcal in Bell.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Oaxaca Old Fashioned, Casamigos Reposado Tequila, Joya Mezcal, agave and Angostura Bitters at Tacos & Mezcal in Bell.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Tacos & Mezcal in Bell.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Rocio Camacho, owner and chef of Tacos & Mezcal in Bell.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)