Jonathan Gold reviews Shiki

Wagyu beef tataki with fresh wasabi. The meat is lightly seared, marinated and sliced thinly, similar to sashimi.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

March 9, 2018 10 AM PT

Sunchoke tofu is on the menu at Shiki Beverly Hills.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Awabi tempura (abalone) and celery roots leaf tempura with salt and lemon at Shiki Beverly Hills.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Zensai, a vegetable sushi appetizer made from local farmers’ market ingredients, consists of black radish, second from right, and winter radish, in red, both pickled in house, along with blanched nanohana (greens with yellow flower) and celtuce with karashi miso.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

The varieties of sushi offered at Shiki include, from left, mirugai, sayori, buri, kohada and tai kobujime sea bream.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times )

Chef Morihiro Onodera cuts celtuce for the vegetable sushi appetizer called zensai at Shiki Beverly Hills.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Morihiro Onodera puts the final touches on a plate of sushi at Shiki Beverly Hills.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Nao Sugiyama, a kaiseki specialist, makes a bowl of wagyu beef tataki at Shiki Beverly Hills, where he is a chef and the owner.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Chefs Morihiro Onodera, left, and Nao Sugiyama came together to revamp the menu at Shiki Beverly Hills. Sugiyama, a kaiseki specialist, owns the restaurant.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)