Delphine restaurant at the W Hollywood

Hollywood Boulevard bustles outside, but upon entering Delphine at the new W Hollywood, you might swear you’ve somehow wandered into the South of France. The food is sunny Mediterranean; the patrons look as though they should be hanging out on the Croisette. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

Delphine’s fritto misto, with shrimp, squid, mussels and clams. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

Traditional French offerings include a croque madame. Or, if you prefer, monsieur. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

Lauren Van Eman heads to a table to fulfill a drink order. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)
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Braised lamb shoulder sofregit. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Sascha Lyon assembles a seafood platter. The Delphine version is replete with oysters, steamed mussels, clams, shrimp, sea snails, scallop ceviche and Dungeness crab. This one, by the way, is the petit Delphine, meaning it’s the smaller of those available. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

The finished petit Delphine. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

The bar, where Lisa Hiramatsu, left, and Molly Knooihuisen interact with guests. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)
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Fish and chips, the Delphine way. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

Striped bass aigo bouido, fish in a light garlic broth dotted with celery and perfumed with orange zest in the Provençal style. For Delphine’s location and hours, go to www.restaurantdelphine.com. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)