Bear Flag Fish Co. in Newport Beach

Bear Flag Fish Co. is a vision of seafood simplicity, the type that should exist along every waterfront but that rarely does. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)

The Bear Flag Fish Co. in

The grilled swordfish sandwich begins with a soft and sturdy baguette from the local C’est Si Bon Bakery. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)

The wall decor at Bear Flag Fish Co. helps set the mood for loyal customers. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)
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The market’s seafood case is front and center at Bear Flag. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)

There’s almost always a line at Bear Flag Fish Co., which retains its beach-town vibe. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)