All’Acqua offers a standard variety of Italian food in Atwater Village, including diavolo pizza. More great L.A.-area restaurants: Jonathan Gold’s 101 (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)
All’Acqua has become a favorite in the neighborhood and is usually crowded, but the wait is never too long. (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)
Don Dickman’s version of porchetta has followed him from restaurant to restaurant. (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)
The crispy lamb’s tongue is garnished nicely with crunchy radish. (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)
Among the antipasta at the new All’Acqua is a bowl of meatballs with whipped ricotta and tomato sauce. (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)
Pasta with short rib and porcini ragu and fresh mozzarella at All’Acqua. (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)
Wood-grilled Spanish octopus with citrus and olives is among the starters at All’Acqua in Atwater. (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)
Putting a pizza into the giant Naples-built oven at All’Acqua. (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)
Among the many pizzas, a pie with fennel-pork sausage, red onions and fennel pollen at All’Acqua. (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)
Behind the bar of All’Acqua in Atwater Village. (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)
Bar manager Lucy Augusta Voigt makes a drink called house old-fashioneds. (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)
Steve Machado, left, and Tim Campbell have a drink before their meal. (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)
A dessert of lemon budino with rosemary shortbread cookie at All’Acqua. (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)
The pear-brown butter crostata with vanilla bean gelato at All’Acqua. (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)
Felicia Fasano, left, and Rosa Graziano share a toast at the convivial restaurant bar. (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)
Chef Don Dickman at All’Acqua in Awater Village. (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)