The Factory Kitchen Italian restaurant in the downtown Los Angeles arts district

The Factory Kitchen occupies a slightly odd location, a tight room, probably a former loading dock, in an old manufacturing complex that has been converted into luxury lofts. The floors are of cracked concrete. The massive pillars betray several layers of peeling paint. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Dec. 11, 2013 11:59 AM PT

When prepared correctly, as it is at the Factory Kitchen, focaccia di Recco is a marvelous thing, oiled dough stretched thin as filo and folded around milky, tart crescenza cheese. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Ortaggi all’agro (steamed kale, green chard, spinach, shallot and Ligurian olive oil). (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Barberosse gratinate (oven baked sliced beets casserole, melted asiago). (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Porchetta (rolled pork belly, red onion, carrots, fennel, celery) served at Factory Kitchen in Los Angeles. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Mandilli di seta (handkerchief pasta, Ligurian almond basil pesto, fiore sardo). (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Cannoli shells on the kitchen counter at the Factory Kitchen. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

The Factory Kitchen is the first solo effort from Angelo Auriana, fresh from a couple of years at a Ligurian-style trattoria in San Francisco’s Mission District, and before that an 18-year stint as the chef at Valentino in Santa Monica, which for much of that time was regarded as the grandest Italian restaurant in town. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)