This Italian steakhouse is one part Sunday gravy, one part big honkin’ steak.
The carne cruda is one of the many dishes at Pistola that are shaped into a cylinder. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
Chef Vic Casanova is an old-school Italian American chef who was raised in the Bronx. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
The chopped salad is made with radicchio, provolone and salami. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
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A Brussels sprouts dish is among the sides on Pistola’s menu. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
Pistola is dark, masculine and a little bit clubby. It’s in the space that was once Suzanne Goin’s AOC on West 3rd Street. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
Lobster Fra Diavalo, artistically twisted with a claw. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
Chef Casanova’s rigatoni is spicy, tart and tomato-intensive. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
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The cocktail bar at Pistola. Jonathan Gold recommends the Rocket Man cocktail, made with pureed arugula. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)