Dining at Mozza

Here, Silverton cuts fresh basil to add to a Margherita pizza.  (Francine Orr / LAT)

Counter diners peruse the Mozza menu.  (Francine Orr / LAT)

Julio Martinez, left, and Gustavo Canceseco prepare Mozza’s pizza dough.  (Francine Orr / LAT)

The egg and guanciale pie is finished with a drizzle of olive oil.  (Francine Orr / LAT)

Bruschettas are done in the wood-burning oven and finished with olive oil.  (Francine Orr / LAT)

Seats at both counters at Mozza are unreserved.  (Francine Orr / LAT)

Waitress Megan Tropea carries pizzas out to diners.  (Francine Orr / LAT)

Executive chef Molina pulls a Margherita pizza out of the oven while Silverton puts the finishing touches on another pie.  (Francine Orr / LAT)

Just before the egg and guanciale (cured pig jowl) pie is baked, it is topped with an egg, which cooks so quickly in the hot oven that the egg yolk is still molten when you bite into it.  (Francine Orr / LAT)

“Nancy’s” chopped salad, a tall pile of chickpeas, iceberg lettuce, cherry tomatoes, aged provolone cheese, salami and radicchio in a bright oregano vinegary dressing is an updated, pristine version of salads you used to find in New York’s Little Italy.  (Francine Orr / LAT)

Dessert holds its own here. Gelato is a great choice.  (Francine Orr / LAT)