Market Fresh: Artichokes

Artichokes are available pretty much all year round these days, but there are two separate peaks for production, and we’re in the middle of the first one right now. That’s because all four of the primary varieties are being harvested.

For years, the only artichokes grown commercially were the big Green Globes that are planted around Castroville, Calif., just north of Monterey. Within the last five or so years, other varieties have been successfully planted in areas as varied as Lompoc and the Imperial Valley.

These new varieties -- Desert Globe, Big Heart and Imperial Star are the main ones -- look very much like the classic Globes, but they differ in one significant respect. These are annual plants grown from seed, whereas Globes are perennials grown from root stock.

That may seem trivial, but to artichoke growers it’s key because planting from seed allows much more flexibility. They can grow artichokes as part of a mix of row crops without having to commit land for a full 10-year run.

Still, most artichoke lovers prefer the original Green Globes. If you’re cooking them (as opposed to steaming them and eating the leaves), look for medium and baby artichokes, which are much less expensive.

How to choose: Pick the freshest artichokes by squeezing the “leaves” (actually, they’re bracts, like the “flowers” on bougainvillea). Really fresh artichokes will squeak when squeezed.

How to store: Keep artichokes in a tightly sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator crisper drawer.

How to prepare: Braising (or “glazing”) artichokes is terrific and easy. Trim them and cut them into bite-sized pieces. Place them in a skillet with a smashed clove of garlic, just enough water to cover the bottom of the pan and a good glug of olive oil. Cook, covered, over medium heat until they’re just tender, then raise the heat to high and cook without a lid until the liquid is reduced to a syrup. Season and serve.