Become an Italian ‘Mamma’ with this new L.A. cookbook

Cooking is an undisputed way to connect to loved ones, but for Filippo Cortivo and the rest of his family, self-publishing a new cookbook meant preserving the memory and traditions of their mother: one of Melrose Avenue’s more recognizable Italian chefs for nearly a decade.

Loredana “Mamma” Cecchinato, the matriarch and namesake of Larchmont’s Osteria Mamma, helped build the black-and-red corner restaurant into a neighborhood staple until her 2017 death after a battle with cancer. Serving dishes primarily from northern Italy and Umbria, the home cook turned professional possessed a natural talent that saw an endless procession of neighbors and family friends through their home in Italy, and a stable of regulars and celebrities in Los Angeles.

Now, a new cookbook titled “Ricettario della Mamma” shares a few of her recipes ideal for home cooks, all pulled from Cecchinato’s three-ring binder full of handwritten recipe scribblings and half-procedures.

“I think my mom deserved more recognition,” said Cortivo, “but she never wanted it. They asked her to open a restaurant all her lifetime and she said, ‘Cooking is my passion. I don’t do it for work.’”

When her children called her to help train Osteria Mamma’s cooks, she was never supposed to clock in for work regularly — she decided to stay simply because she loved it.

Osteria Mamma co-owner Filippo Cortivo with his niece, Arianna dal Santo, sorting through family photos. Many of these photos and generational recipes are published in a new cookbook celebrating the restaurant’s late co-founder and matriarch, Loredana “Mamma” Cecchinato.

(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)

Cortivo had always wanted to assemble a cookbook of his mother’s recipes, even before her death, but never knew where to begin. His longtime friend Rob Hoffman, a photographer and content creator, felt touched by the dream and made it possible.

When Hoffman first moved to L.A., he lived just down the street from Osteria la Buca, which Cortivo co-owned. When the Italian chef sold his stake in the business in 2010 and opened Osteria Mamma farther west on Melrose Avenue, Hoffman’s patronage followed.

“I’ve been eating his food for a long time, and Mamma’s, too,” Hoffman said. “Mamma used to come out of the kitchen, say hi to everyone, give you a sneaky shot of limoncello. You feel at home, and now I’m part of the family.”

Hoffman and Cortivo combed through Cecchinato’s trove of recipes, translating and testing — a challenge for Hoffman, who does not speak Italian — and converting from metric into imperial measurements, and updating them for modern kitchen technology. Some recipes didn’t include any measurements at all.

Cookbook editor and photographer Rob Hoffman sorted through Osteria Mamma family photos and generational recipes for a new cookbook celebrating the restaurant’s late co-founder and matriarch, Loredana “Mamma” Cecchinato.

(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)

Hoffman edited the book and photographed each dish, splicing his food photos into collages of a century of scanned family photos that had been stored in a large shoebox.

Before she died, Cecchinato left Cortivo a note that served as a guiding star while trying to capture her voice and style in the restaurant’s new book: “I’m not a cook,” she wrote. “I’m just a mom that has a lot of fun at the store. I’m passionate about good cooking, and everything is tradition.”

Many of the dishes in the cookbook never made their way to Osteria Mamma’s menu — until the restaurant published the cookbook earlier this year and, in tandem, launched a prix-fixe four-course menu featuring dishes from the book. The cookbook menu runs through the end of the year and is available every day of service, and includes a copy of the book. Should you like to try your hand at a few of Mamma’s recipes before you pick up a copy, however, here are three to get you started and cooking like Cecchinato in no time.

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Pomodori spumosi, or cheese-stuffed tomatoes

Take advantage of this simple recipe while tomatoes are still in their prime. Roma tomatoes work particularly well for their shape, but any tomato will do — though ideally locally grown and sourced from the farmers market. Once salted and filled with whipped cheese and fresh herbs, tomatoes transform into a starter or side dish that’s bright and refreshing. Top with green olives, a la Osteria Mamma, or go wild with lemon zest, bottarga or any other summery item that strikes your fancy.
Get the recipe.
Cook time: 20 minutes, plus chill time. Serves 4.

(Rob Hoffman / Osteria Mamma)

“Midnight spaghetti”

Known in the Cortivo and Cecchinato family as “midnight spaghetti,” this dish is meant to be made from readily available pantry items and fridge staples. Cecchinato made this for her family in Italy long before her children opened Osteria Mamma, often feeding it to them and their friends into the early hours of morning. Lightly garlicky and a textural delight thanks to flecks of imported tuna in the quick tomato sauce, it’s especially satisfying after a late night spent drinking or otherwise socializing.
Get the recipe.
Cook time: 45 minutes. Serves 4-6.

(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)

Chocolate salami

Found in both Italy and Portugal, when sliced, this sweet, no-bake dessert looks like logs of salami — but there’s no meat involved. Cocoa powder and sugar are bound by egg yolk, while crumbled Maria cookies visually form what are traditionally the flecks of fat in the sausage. This recipe is simple, whimsical, delicious and chilled: perfect for L.A.’s current heatwave. Add a bit of booze for more flavor, or chopped nuts for more texture. The world is your chocolate sausage.
Get the recipe.
Cook time: 10 minutes, plus at least 4 hours of chill time. Serves 4.

(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)