Guidebook: Zeroing In on Zermatt

Getting there: From LAX, nonstop service to Zürich is available on Swiss, and connecting service (change of planes) is offered on Lufthansa, Air France, KLM, Air Canada, American, Delta, British and Continental.

Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,217. (From LAX, connecting service also is offered to Geneva--a restricted fare begins at $1,257--and to Milan, Italy, for $1,245.)

A train from the Zürich airport to Zermatt takes about five hours and costs about $140 per person, round trip, second class.

Telephones: To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 41 (country code for Switzerland), 27 (area code) and the local number.

Where to stay: There are many excellent hotels and guest houses in Zermatt, at all prices. Ranges given below are for spring through fall. Among those I tried:

Hotel Biner, CH-3920 Zermatt; 966-5666, fax 966-5667, https://www.hotel-biner-zermatt.ch, on the north side of the village near the river. It has a terrace, indoor swimming pool and hot tub. Doubles about $100-$176, including breakfast and luggage transport to and from the train.

Hotel Riffelberg, CH-3920 Zermatt; 966-6500, fax 966-6505, https://www.zermatt.ch/riffelberg, a small, traditional family-run hotel and restaurant at the Riffelberg stop of the Gornergrat railway (about 20 minutes from Zermatt). It has stupendous views and easy access to trails. Doubles $162-$190, with breakfast and dinner.

Hotel Monte Rosa, Bahnhofstrasse, CH-3920 Zermatt; 966-0333, fax 966-0330, https://www.zermatt.ch/monterosa, the village’s first hotel, on the square near the church. It has Old World décor, distinguished service, and restaurant and health club privileges at its nearby sister hotel, the Mont Cervin. Doubles $167-$261, with breakfast and dinner.

Where to eat: The food at the Hotel Monte Rosa (see above) is distinguished and elegantly served; a four-course dinner costs $50-$70 per person.

The restaurant at the Hotel Riffelberg (see above) has four-course set dinners for guests, and the food is tasty; $40-$50 per person for those not staying at the hotel.

Hotel Walliserhof, 966-6555, on Bahnhofstrasse, has a pleasant street-side terrace; dinner about $40 per person.

The Alex Hotel, 966-7070, near the train station, has a quiet garden restaurant; dinner $40-$50.

The Old Zermatt Restaurant, 967-6111, on the east side of the river, is a prime spot for Matterhorn shutterbugs at sunrise.

For more information: Zermatt Tourism, Bahnhofplatz, CH-3920 Zermatt, Switzerland; 966-8100, fax 966-8101, https://www.zermatt.ch (ask about Zermatt packages).

Zermatt Alpin Center, Postfach 403, CH-3920 Zermatt, Switzerland; 966-2460, fax 966-2469, https://www.zermatt.ch/alpincenter (for information on guided hikes, climbs and other mountain excursions).

Switzerland Tourism, 501 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 607, Santa Monica, CA 90401; (877) 794-8037 or (310) 640-8900, https://www.myswitzerland.com.

Susan Spano