Braised greens and potatoes with lemon and fennel
This soupy stew has a depth of flavor that comes only from careful, long cooking. And it is a great way to get the most out of those odd scraps of lettuce, kale and chard in the crisper drawer. Any smooth-skinned boiling potato will do in place of fingerlings. Using water rather than stock allows you to control the amount of salt more accurately. And don’t skip that final drizzle of olive oil — it provides a final lift for the whole dish.
In a wide, deep soup pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the carrots, green onions, fennel bulb, potatoes and fennel seeds, stir to coat with the oil and cook an additional 3 minutes.
Add the greens in batches, starting with the larger leaves and gradually adding the smaller, more tender ones. Stir a few times to help the leaves wilt and reduce in size, then add the wine and cook for 1 minute; add the water, the preserved lemon and salt to taste.
Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the greens and potatoes are tender and most of the juices have been absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes. If there is still too much liquid, raise the heat to high and continue to cook until the liquid is reduced, up to an additional 10 to 15 minutes.
Add the lemon juice, half the dill, the fennel fronds and stalks and sprinkle with the red pepper; toss, taste and adjust the seasonings as desired. Cook an additional 2 minutes to marry the flavors, then sprinkle with remaining dill.
Serve warm or at room temperature, drizzled with the good, fruity olive oil.
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