DINING OUT:Nostalgia tastes just great

The year was 1946. The first of the baby boomers was born. The first computer was unveiled. The Flamingo casino opened in Las Vegas and Bob Hope and Bing Crosby were part of the opening night celebration at The Smoke House in Burbank.

The venerable restaurant has been serving stars and moguls, tourists and locals ever since. They’re celebrating their 60th anniversary the entire month of October.

Smoke House prices are decidedly modern, but everything else is pure nostalgia. As soon as you enter, the dark wood, red vinyl booths and old-fashioned hospitality welcome you to a simpler time. The atmosphere complements the menu of familiar American and continental comfort food.

The Smoke House’s “world famous” garlic bread tops the menu. A secret recipe created in the 1950s, the dish is made up of soft loaves of French bread, cut in half and spread with a topping of butter, garlic and spices, then broiled to a crispy crust. Don’t order dinner without it. The garlic bread is so good that it keeps customers coming back for that reason alone. In fact, you can often spot people stopping by to pick some up on the way home.

Prime rib is one of the specialties of the house and is offered in three different-sized portions. The meat is moist, tender and flavorful and served with horseradish sauce, green beans and choice of potato. Another favorite is the babyback pork ribs. Smoky and fall-off-the-bone tender, the half-slab more than satisfies. The barbecue sauce is mild and savory and doesn’t overpower the meat. I had mine with the twice-baked potato, which was a delicious complement.

There’s plenty more than meat to choose from. My wife enjoyed the seafood brochette, a skewer of grilled shrimp, scallops and salmon. It was prepared beautifully. Each piece of seafood was done to the correct temperature and the dish was topped with a light lemon sauce.

Other seafood entrees, such as fish and chips and lobster, also round out the menu. If you leave room after dinner, take a gander at the dessert tray. Though it doesn’t look traditional, the Boston cream pie is a good choice. It is a huge slice of custard and cake that is topped with hot fudge just before serving. If you haven’t been in a while, hurry over to The Smoke House and take advantage of its $19.46 anniversary specials. Nostalgia never tasted so good.

FYI

WHAT: The Smoke House

WHEN: 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday; 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday; 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday brunch; 3 to 9 p.m. Sunday dinner

WHERE: 4420 W. Lakeside Drive, Burbank

COST: Lunch, $7.95 to $17.95; Dinner, $15.95 to $45.95

PHONE: (818) 845-3731, fax (818) 845-3181 or e-mail info@smokehouse1946.com

BONUS: Banquet rooms, Sunday brunch, live music in lounge Wednesdays through Sundays